Monday, December 26, 2011

Ipocras

During winter and, especially the holiday season, it is customary to drink wine infused with spices, such as mulled wine or "hot wine." Spiced wine goes back to Roman times and, during the Middle Ages, the most popular drink of all was Ipocras (or Hipocras). This was a mixture of wine, cinnamon, sugar and ginger. In some recipes nutmeg was also added. Ipocras was taken at the end of a meal as a digestive. That means it was beneficial to the internal plumbing. It was a drink of the highest nobility and it was served to Queen Elizabeth I at her coronation.

It was also a drink that defined your station in life. According to a very old cookbook, Forme of Cury (1390), Ipocras made with sugar is destined for the lords. Ipocras made with honey is for the people. Sugar was a very expensive commodity in those days which only the higher classes could afford it. Luckily, today, those of us in the 99 percent can afford sugar as well as honey. So think of drinking Ipocras as a way to get back at the one percenters. Whichever way you look at it, it makes for a great beverage during these cold, chilly days. Hell, it's a great drink for any season since it can be served at room temperature or slightly chilled. 

The recipe given is by one Ruperto de Nola from his cookbook, Libro de Guisados (Book of Stews), the 1529 edition. Ruperto was cook to King Fernando of Naples.

The Middle Ages is not known for its gastronomy. But this drink seems to have gotten a lot of people through those Dark Ages.

IPOCRAS

1 1/2 cups red wine
1 1/2 cups dry wine
1 teaspoon powdered cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon powdered cloves
1/8 teaspoon powdered ginger
2 tablespoons sugar (or more to taste)

1. Combined all of the ingredients in an enameled or heat-proof glass pot.
2. Bring slowly to a boil.
3. Once it starts boiling, remove from heat. Strain though cheesecloth or a cloth sieve set over a bowl. Serve at room temperature, or slightly cool, in mugs or (if you want to be fancy about it) wine glasses.
    Yield: about 2-3 cups

Saturday, December 3, 2011

Potato Pancakes

Potatoes have been with us since the beginning of time. But it was the Spanish conquistadors who brought it to Europe from Peru in the 16th century. Funny thing is that it wasn't until the 1800s that potatoes gained currency throughout most of Europe and became the common staple we know today. It's popularity is understandable. It is one of the most versatile of foods. Yet, over time it has become routine. We serve them fried, baked or mashed. Our Jewish brethren, during the Hanukkah festival. make them in the form of latkes, or potato pancakes. But, just like with rye bread, you don't have to be Jewish to enjoy potato pancakes. They are easy to make; and are a well-deserved change from the usual fries.

One can have potato pancakes for breakfast, lunch or dinner. They make a great side dish with ham, steak or chicken. Or you can enjoy them simply with applesauce or sour cream.

Given below is a basic potato pancake recipe. I've learned through experience that it's convenient to keep them warm in a low oven depending on time constraints. Believe me, once you've tasted these suckers, they'll become a regular event.

BASIC POTATO PANCAKES

4 large russet potatoes, peeled
1 medium red onion
2 cloves garlic, peeled
1/2 cup parsley or cilantro leaves
2 eggs, lightly beaten
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
3-4 tablespoons all-purpose flour
Vegetable oil for frying (about 2 cups)

1. In a food processor, grate the potatoes, onion, garlic and parsley (or cilantro). Using a rubber spatula or wooden spoon, scrape into a large bowl. Drain off any excess liquid.
2. Mix in the eggs, salt and pepper. Add enough flour to the mixture to make it thick (about 3-4 tablespoons should do it).
3. Preheat oven to low (about 200 degrees F. or 95 degrees C.).
4. Heat a large heavy skillet or pan (I prefer cast iron) over medium heat. When hot, add oil to generously coat the bottom of the pan (about1/4-inch oil should be sufficient). Drop two or three 1/4-cup batter into hot oil, and flatten to make 1/2-inch thick circles. Fry, turning once, until golden brown (about 4-6 minutes per side). Drain on a plate lined with paper towels, and repeat until all the batter is used. Keep warm in the low oven until serving time.
     Yield: 4 servings.