Oswald at Large

The Myth of the Dim Mak "Delayed Death Touch"

2012-01-28T17:58:00.000-05:00

Every so often, in one of my wu-su martial arts classes someone always inquires about the so-called Din Mak "death touch." This usually comes about when we start teaching the concept of Chin Na Fa. "Chin" in Chinese means to "to seize of catch," and "Na" means to hold and control. It's a style that uses joint lock manipulation, chokes, throws, and pressure point attacks. It's the pressure points that get people to inquire as to Dim Mak. Simply put, in Chin Na, pressing techniques are used on nerve endings to cause extreme pain and/or unconsciousness. This is a far cry from the Din Mak "delayed death touch," which everyone wants to learn.

Chin Na does make use of "Duann Mie" (another word for Dim Mak which involves sealing or blocking the vein/artery by pressing). This can also involve cavity pressing or meridian pressing, which exemplifies Dim Mak. According to ancient Chinese medicine, the body's life force (Chi, Qi or Ki) travels though invisible channels called meridians. Any disruption in the flow of this Chi force can cause illness or disease. The meridian flow concept is prevalent in the use and theory of acupuncture whereby needles are inserted into different points on the meridians in order to counteract an illness. Din Mak evolves along the same theory: attack the points and you disrupt the flow of energy, thereby causing injury or death.

There is no question that attacking a nerve ending or pressure point can do great harm. A thumb press on the left common carotid artery (just below the ear) can block blood flow to the brain and result in unconsciousness or worse. And there are numerous pressure points that we study on the body that can have similar affect. Also, a blow to a vital part of the body can also result in injury. Note that one of the most common cause of sudden cardiac arrest in young athletes is a condition called Commotio Cordis, where a non-penetrating blow to the chest occurring within a specific portion of the cardiac cycle can cause severe trauma. But this is a far cry from the "death touch."

What is controversial about the Dim Mak concept is this idea that that you can attack someone simply by touching a vulnerable area and producing a delayed reaction whereby the subject incurs death hours or days later. Medically speaking, there are instances of a delayed reaction due to an injury. You get into a situation where you sustain an injury and you don't treat it, after a while it's going to get worse. You sustain a strike to the kidneys and you start peeing blood, and you don't see a medical person right away, you have problems. But a delayed injury by mere touch, without the subject even feeling or knowing until the time of death? This leads to much debate and controversy, and skepticism on the part of many.

This controversy was fueled in part by a 1985 article in Black Belt magazine which attested that the death of fabled Kung-Fu icon Bruce Lee in 1973 was due to a "delayed reaction to a Dim-Mak strike he received several weeks prior to his collapse." Following in this vein, others attested that Bruce Lee may have been the victim of the "Quivering Palm technique" which also incurred a delayed reaction. I remember an episode from the 1970s TV series Quincy, starring Jack Klugman, whereby a martial arts movie star dies mysteriously while making a movie. And guess what? Dr. Quincy discovers that it was due to a Dim Mak strike 10 days earlier.

Let's put it in perspective. This "delayed death touch" business has become fodder for TV and action movies. In the 1990s karate instructor George Dillman invented a style called Kyushojutsu that he claimed had qi-based attacks without physical contact, the "no-touch knockout" techniques." Upon third-party investigation the whole thing was denounced as fraudulent. Another parctiioner, Erle Montaigue, published a number of books and videos on Dim Mak. He claimed that he had learned the technique from a master named Chian Yiu-chun. Problem was, as Montaigue later stated, this master was an illegal immigrant, making his existence very difficult to verify.

Now, I'm not saying that this delayed death touch may or may not exist. If you believe in your mind it exists, then it does. If you don't believe so, then it doesn't. Just as if you believe Voodoo exists, it does. If you don't believe so, it doesn't. Just be aware that if you come across an instructor who states he can teach you the "delayed death touch" or the "five point palm exploding heart technique" (as shown in the Kill Bill Vol. 2 movie) and assures you it can be done if you pay up ex-amount of dollars, head for the door. That person may be a charlatan, and is taking you for a ride.

Sancocho

2012-01-13T16:50:00.000-05:00

Now that the weather has gotten a mite chillier (finally), our thoughts turn to warm, hardy comfort foods. Sancocho is such a variety. It is the archetypal Puerto Rican stew. It's hearty and stick to the ribs fare.Think of the French cassoulet where pork, beans, lamb and sausages are all mixed together in a casserole. In that vein there is Nabiaki Udom which calls for chicken or beef or anything else on hand thrown into one dish. Also the Chinese Congee would come to mind. You get the idea, put everything together in one pot and let it simmer until it's rich and thick. Sancocho follows along the same lines with an assortment to vegetables which are added to a broth. The vegetables include root plants such as yuca, also known as cassava; yautia (ya-oo-teah), also called tanier or dasheen; and name (nyah-meh), a starchy root.

In Puerto Rican slang, sancochar means to boil ot stew. Thus the sancocho moniker since it is a platter containing pork, chicken and what have you. Sancocho takes time and patience to cook. But it's worth the effort. The result is an ultimately superior meal in itself.

The recipe below is from my first cookbook, Puerto Rican Cuisine in America (Avalon Books-Thunder's Mouth Press). The root plants (or bianda) can be found in any Asian or Caribbean market. Cassava is a common product these days, no problem there. If you can't find yautia, then substitute turnips, and for name, you can use yams.

SANCOCHO

1/2 cup olive oil
1 medium green bell pepper, cored, seeded and chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and crush
3 aji dulce (sweet chili pepper), seeded and chopped
6 fresh cilantro leaves, washed and chopped
1 pound boneless chuck beef, trimmed of fat and cut into 1-inch chunks
1 pound pork shoulder, cut into 1-inch chunks
1 medium stewing chicken (about 2 1/2 pounds) washed and cut into serving pieces
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 teaspoon dried oregano
2 ears fresh corn, shucked and quartered
1/2 pound yuca, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
1/2 pound yautia, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
1/2 pound name, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
1/2 pound pumpkin, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
3 green plantains, peeled and quartered
1/2 cup tomato sauce
1 teaspoon salt

1. Heat oil in a large kettle or Dutch oven and add bell pepper, onion, garlic, aji dulce and cilantro. Saute over moderate heat until tender (4-5 minutes).
2. Add beef, pork, chicken, pepper, and oregano. Cook until meat is browned (8-10 minutes).
3. With a slotted spoon, remove chicken parts from pot and set aside.
4. Add corn, yuca, yautia, name, pumpkin and plantains to meat.
5. Add water to cover contents in pot, also add tomato sauce and salt. Bring to a boil. Cover, lower heat and simmer for 30 minutes.
6. Add chicken and continue to cook on low heat until meat is tender (about 2-2 1/2 hours).
7. Uncover pot and remove plantains. Place in a bowl and mash with a potato masher or big spoon. Let cool for a few minutes. Form into small balls with palms of hand. Return to kettle and boil for 1-2 minutes.
8. Serve with a loaf of crusty bread.
Yield: 12 servings.

Ipocras

2011-12-26T12:57:00.000-05:00

During winter and, especially the holiday season, it is customary to drink wine infused with spices, such as mulled wine or "hot wine." Spiced wine goes back to Roman times and, during the Middle Ages, the most popular drink of all was Ipocras (or Hipocras). This was a mixture of wine, cinnamon, sugar and ginger. In some recipes nutmeg was also added. Ipocras was taken at the end of a meal as a digestive. That means it was beneficial to the internal plumbing. It was a drink of the highest nobility and it was served to Queen Elizabeth I at her coronation.

It was also a drink that defined your station in life. According to a very old cookbook, Forme of Cury (1390), Ipocras made with sugar is destined for the lords. Ipocras made with honey is for the people. Sugar was a very expensive commodity in those days which only the higher classes could afford it. Luckily, today, those of us in the 99 percent can afford sugar as well as honey. So think of drinking Ipocras as a way to get back at the one percenters. Whichever way you look at it, it makes for a great beverage during these cold, chilly days. Hell, it's a great drink for any season since it can be served at room temperature or slightly chilled.

The recipe given is by one Ruperto de Nola from his cookbook, Libro de Guisados (Book of Stews), the 1529 edition. Ruperto was cook to King Fernando of Naples.

The Middle Ages is not known for its gastronomy. But this drink seems to have gotten a lot of people through those Dark Ages.

IPOCRAS

1 1/2 cups red wine
1 1/2 cups dry wine
1 teaspoon powdered cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon powdered cloves
1/8 teaspoon powdered ginger
2 tablespoons sugar (or more to taste)

1. Combined all of the ingredients in an enameled or heat-proof glass pot.
2. Bring slowly to a boil.
3. Once it starts boiling, remove from heat. Strain though cheesecloth or a cloth sieve set over a bowl. Serve at room temperature, or slightly cool, in mugs or (if you want to be fancy about it) wine glasses.
Yield: about 2-3 cups

Potato Pancakes

2011-12-03T11:15:00.000-05:00

Potatoes have been with us since the beginning of time. But it was the Spanish conquistadors who brought it to Europe from Peru in the 16th century. Funny thing is that it wasn't until the 1800s that potatoes gained currency throughout most of Europe and became the common staple we know today. It's popularity is understandable. It is one of the most versatile of foods. Yet, over time it has become routine. We serve them fried, baked or mashed. Our Jewish brethren, during the Hanukkah festival. make them in the form of latkes, or potato pancakes. But, just like with rye bread, you don't have to be Jewish to enjoy potato pancakes. They are easy to make; and are a well-deserved change from the usual fries.

One can have potato pancakes for breakfast, lunch or dinner. They make a great side dish with ham, steak or chicken. Or you can enjoy them simply with applesauce or sour cream.

Given below is a basic potato pancake recipe. I've learned through experience that it's convenient to keep them warm in a low oven depending on time constraints. Believe me, once you've tasted these suckers, they'll become a regular event.

BASIC POTATO PANCAKES

4 large russet potatoes, peeled
1 medium red onion
2 cloves garlic, peeled
1/2 cup parsley or cilantro leaves
2 eggs, lightly beaten
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
3-4 tablespoons all-purpose flour
Vegetable oil for frying (about 2 cups)

1. In a food processor, grate the potatoes, onion, garlic and parsley (or cilantro). Using a rubber spatula or wooden spoon, scrape into a large bowl. Drain off any excess liquid.
2. Mix in the eggs, salt and pepper. Add enough flour to the mixture to make it thick (about 3-4 tablespoons should do it).
3. Preheat oven to low (about 200 degrees F. or 95 degrees C.).
4. Heat a large heavy skillet or pan (I prefer cast iron) over medium heat. When hot, add oil to generously coat the bottom of the pan (about1/4-inch oil should be sufficient). Drop two or three 1/4-cup batter into hot oil, and flatten to make 1/2-inch thick circles. Fry, turning once, until golden brown (about 4-6 minutes per side). Drain on a plate lined with paper towels, and repeat until all the batter is used. Keep warm in the low oven until serving time.
Yield: 4 servings.

Women in Combat

2011-11-17T13:06:00.000-05:00

On Veterans Day, November 11th, I attended a screening of a remarkable new documentary feature, Service: When Women Come Marching Home. This thought provoking work by Marcia Rock and Patricia Lee Stotter examines the role of women veterans with regard to how they transition from active duty to civilian life. This is new territory. We know about the plight of the GIs coming home, mostly men, and this has been chronicled before, from the World War II post-war movie, The Best Years of Our Lives (1946), to modern renditions such as The Hurt Locker (2008). But a discussion on the plight of women in our services is still relatively new. Yes, women do serve, with distinction, and they undergo the same travails as their male counterparts, be it casualty-sustaining wounds or PTSD (Post Traumatic Stress Syndrome). Yet, they are relegated to the background. It's as if we don't want to acknowledge or confront the fact that they labor and sweat alongside the menfolk.

After the screening, there was a question-and-answer session regarding the documentary. Along with Ms. Rock and Ms. Stotter, two of the four other ladies featured in the film also took questions from the audience. The two female veterans were Sue Downes and Mariette Kalinowski. Corporal Downes served in Iraq, where she lost both her legs below the knee due to a landmine explosion. Sergeant Kalionowski served two tours as a gunner, manning a 50-caliber machine above a humvee.

During the session, I asked a question, that is always bound to draw a mixed reaction. To wit: if it became official policy that women were to serve in front-line combat, would that changed the perception we have of females serving in a war zone? This question, to me, is the crux of the matter. It is a fiction that women are not serving in combat situations already. The official government policy is that woman do not serve in combat. But, as Ms. Kalinowski and, particular, Ms. Downes show, this is not entirely true. The fact is, we have women facing enemy fire just like the men. This fiction is explained in the policy that women serve in support roles. That is, hauling supplies, doing medevac work, military police, inventory, etc. Except, as the present wars have shown, and Vietnam before that, in a guerrilla war, the people in the rear are just as exposed to enemy attack as those in the trenches.

The support-role concept goes back to the universal idea we have of women in general. They are the nurturers, the givers, the ones who maintain home and hearth. To think of women as fighters is anathema to some. If the powers that be in the military ever decided that yes, women should legally be in combat, that would change our cultural values and perceptions regarding females. Are we ready for that? Are we ready to accept the notion that our wives, mothers and daughters be trained as killers? Can we view them as such? It would mean a major sea change in our perceptions. Most would say that Americans are not ready for that. But history has shown differently. In 1948, at Israel's founding, both men and women served in combat situations. In the former Soviet Union, during the Second World War, women fought on the Eastern Front to combat the Nazi menace. The concept of women as warriors in not new; in fact, it's very old.

I have no problems with women serving in actual combat. If a female has the training and the ability, I see no reason why she shouldn't be in a rifle platoon or a special ops unit. Both Ms. Kalinowski and Ms. Downes put a lie to this concept of woman as weak and ineffectual. Ms. Downes lost limbs serving her country. She merited her Purple Heart the same as I and countless others, and received numerous decorations to boot. She had nothing to prove to anyone. She is a warrior. For women like her, and Ms. Kalinowski, who display singular courage, valor and, yes, heroism, they should be welcomed as brothers-in-arms.

A Mess of Pottage

2011-11-01T12:51:00.000-04:00

The first biblical account of a dish of food affecting human behavior occurs in Genesis 24:29-34, the first book of Moses, where Esau sells his birthright to his younger brother, Jacob, for a "mess of pottage." What we are talking about here is lentils, that Old World legume that is beloved in the Rivera family. Lentils are akin to liver. You either hate them or love them. And it's interesting that this is the first food given a biblical reference.This is a big deal by all accounts. Esau was a "cunning hunter; a man of the field; and Jacob was a plain man dwelling in tents." Except that Jacob was the cunning one since he got his older brother to renounce his heritage for a plate of red lentils. Jacob was the grandson of Abraham, the patriarch of three of the world's greatest religions. And it was Jacob who gave his people, the Israelites, a national conscience. It could have been Esau---had it not been for those pesky lentils, and the fact that he was starving. So one shrewd brother flimflams the other, and history is changed.

And what was so great about this freakin' recipe? Actually, not much. No ingredient list is given in the Bible. Esau had come in from the fields and he was famished, simple as that. The story fascinates me and I've tried to emulate the recipe as Jacob, or his wife, would have prepared it. Onions, garlic and tomatoes were a staple in Ur, the important city in Mesopotamia (read modern day Iraq) during the fourth and third millenia B.C.E. Genesis 11:31 says that Abraham, originally Abram, migrated from "Ur of the Chaldeans" to the land of Canaan. In Ur they also had spices such as salt and pepper. I'm sure all these provisions were taken on the trek to the land God promised to the Israelites.

The recipe given is quite simple, just enhanced by natural ingredients. It comes from my second cookbook, The Pharaoh's Feast (which was also published in England under the title Feasting with the Ancestors).

When I make lentils, I use it in conjunction with rice. Gives the old rice and beans combo a new twist. Lentils, like other dried beans, are quick and easy to prepare. They may be sold hold or split into halves, and are good for you, providing a healthy source of cholesterol-lowering fiber. Which means they are good in preventing heart disease. They are also contain B-vitamins and protein, and virtually no fat. A whole cup of cooked lentils provides just 230 calories. Can't go wrong with these suckers.

A MESS OF POTTAGE

1 cup dried lentils
4 cups water
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 medium onions, peeled and sliced from the stem down into 1/2-inch thick moons
2 clove garlic, peeled and minced
Salt and ground pepper to taste
2 ripe tomatoes, sliced into half-moons

1. Wash lentils under cold running water.
2. In a large pot or casserole (a Dutch oven is good for this), cover the lentils with water. Cover the pot, bring to a boil, and cook over medium heat for 10 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a medium skillet and add the onions and garlic. Saute for about 3 minutes or until the onions brown at the edges.
4. Add the onions and garlic to the lentils, plus the salt and pepper. Simmer over low heat, stirring occasionally, for 30 to 45 minutes until the lentils are tender adding, more water if the mixture becomes too thick.
5. Serve garnished with tomatoes.
Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

Baked Apples

2011-10-10T11:41:00.000-04:00

Vermont in the fall is glorious. We spend our days here in the summer and, sometimes, we come back in the fall to see the foliage with all its vivrant colors. The other thing we note is that there are apples everywhere: apples falling from tress on the roads, in back yards, on dirt paths, you name it. Here in the property where we're at we also have apple trees. Thus, since the summer, I've gotten into the habit of eating apples for snacks and as dessert.

According to the medical journals, apples are good for you. They are high in antioxidants, that substance that is good for the heart. Apples enhance lung function, help build strong bones and thus prevent osteoporosis, and provide dietary fiber (which is great for those who want to be regular, if you know what I mean). And all that without any fat or sodium.

In Vermont the locals love to make apple pies and apple cider. Those are good, but my favorite apple recipe is simple baked apples. It's easy, and can be done with any apple variety. In our area, the usual varieties are crab apples and, what I think are red delicious. They are sweet, juicy and crisp. The recipe given is the simplest there is. Just flavor with some syrup (maple or any other syrup such as hazelnut), or plain honey, and bake. The easiest fat-free dessert.

BAKED APPLES

4 apples (any combination or whatever is available), cored, halved, and sliced thinly
5 tablespoons maple syrup or honey
Ground cinnamon

1. Preheat oven to 375 degree.
2. Place apples in a baking dish (I prefer cast-iron).
3. Drizzle syrup or honey on apples; and dust lightly with cinnamon.
4. Bake 30 minutes or until fork tender.
Yield: 4 servings or more.

Rum Punch

2011-09-24T10:57:00.000-04:00

Prior to the American revolution, the drink of choice in the colonies was rum. It fueled the American heart. It's estimated that the colonists downed 3 3/4 gallons per head per year, and this includes women and children. At his inaugural in 1789, George Washington, the first President of the United States, had a barrel of Barbados rum served at the function. In colonial homes, no social gathering would be complete without a bowl of rum punch.

Today we think of rum mainly as a mixed drink such as in mojitos, daiquiris, or that rite of passage for almost every young person in America, rum and coca-cola. But rum punch at your next party or get-together is not such a bad idea. You can make it as powerful or as weak as desired, and, believe me, it livens up any gathering. Below is given a rum punch recipe from the 18th century. And, yes, it's as delicious now as it was then. If you want to imitate those crazy Republican tea party folks, put on a tri-corner colonial hat, ruffled shirt and knee britches, and your set to party the old-fashioned way. Oh,yes, the recipe is from my second cookbook, The Pharaoh's Feast, also published in the United Kingdom under the title, Feasting with the Ancestors.

RUM PUNCH

1 cup pure maple syrup
2 cups lemon or lime juice
1 quart water (you can use sparkling water to give it fizz)
1 bottle (750 ml.) dark rum (I prefer Anejo which is aged over 8 years, but any good dark rum will do)
Ground nutmeg

1.In a punch bowl, mix the maple syrup with the lemon or lime juice. Add water and stir.
2. Add the rum and serve over ice in the punch bowl, with nutmeg sprinkled on top.
Yield: about 20 servings.

Crabmeat Salmorejo Style

2011-09-04T16:58:00.008-04:00

As previously promised on this Blog .. MORE Videos !

Crabmeat Salmorejo Style
Also known as Jueyes Salmorejo

The Picture will take you to the YouTube Video

Please enjoy the Video .. More to come at a later time.

Special Thanks to the Hard Drive Doctor .

Fish Steaks with Tomato and Cilantro

2011-08-19T08:37:00.001-04:00

As previously promised on this Blog .. MORE Videos !

This time, Fish Steaks with Tomato and Cilantro.
Also known as Pescado con Tomate y Culantro
These Pictures will take you to the YouTube Videos

Fish Steaks with Tomato and Cilantro PART 1

Fish Steaks with Tomato and Cilantro PART 2

Please enjoy the Videos .. More to come at a later time.

Special Thanks to the Hard Drive Doctor .

The African-American Definition

2011-08-04T14:27:00.000-04:00

"We are not Africans. These people are not from Africa; they don't know a thing about Africa . . . That is totally stupid. I was born here, and so were my parents and grandparents and, very likely, my great grandparents. I don't have any connection to Africa, no more than white Americans have to Germany, Scotland, England, Ireland, or the Netherlands. The same applies to 99 percent of all black Americans as regards to Africa. So stop, already!! With names like Shaniqua, Taliqua and Mohammed and all that crap . . . And all of them in jail."

The above is from Dr. William Henry Cosby, Jr., Ed.D. Otherwise known as simply, Bill Cosby. I must admit to a similar qualm that I've had ever since the "African-American" definition began to replace the term "black" as a cognitive for Americans of color. I've always felt a bit unease about it. How many Americans are actually "African-Americans?." Not only that, how many know anything about Africa or its history? My father was a man of color from the Caribbean. He had brown skin and straight jet-black hair (the Caribbean Indian influence) while my mother's ancestry is Italian. I am of mixed heritage, a mongrel, if you will and proud of it. I have no right to classifying myself as an "African-American."

Perhaps President Obama could classify himself as such since his father was a Kenyan. But how many out there can claim the same? It reminds me of the old Barney Miller TV series in the 70s where one of the detectives, a black man naturally, decides to trace his family tree. This was during the time of the "Roots" mini-series TV phenomenon. Well, he discovers that his lineage is Scottish! How to explain that to his wife and kids?

When I was a young boy way back when, the appellation used was either "colored" or Negro. In the sixties Negro was discarded and "black" became the preference. It was a point of pride to refer to oneself as being "black." Yet, in terms of biology there are three definitive DNA groups: Caucasoid (white), Negroid (black) and Asiatic. There is no African-American DNA reference, or even "colored" DNA reference.

Now, I don't care what anyone wants to call themselves; it can Northwest Pacific Islander, or North African-Equatorial Arabist, or Martian, or other. But, at least have a point of reference. Humanity began on the Serengeti Plains of East Africa. Does that mean that someone from Norway is a "African-Norwegian," or from China a "Chinese-African," or if from Russia, an "African-Russian?" Labels can be deceiving, folks. Want to call yourself an "African-American?" It's you choice and your right. But I'd rather think of all of us as being just plain Americans, and nothing less.

Avocados for Summer

2011-07-23T12:52:00.000-04:00

Yesterday In New York, the temperature reached 104 degrees F.---and that was the mean temperature, not the heat index (which was probably 112-114 degrees). Today, we're told, ain't going to be much better. With heat like that, the idea of cooking anything is out of the question. Even lighting up the old grill seems onerous. So what better way to fight heat and hunger than with AVOCADOS! Yes, that delicious fruit. That's right, it's a fruit, not a vegetable.

In my family we've consumed avocados forever. And not only as guacamole. We have it with eggs for breakfast; or in sandwiches for dinner. Mainly we eat it anywhere with a dash of salt and pepper. Avocados are perfect for summer since they need no cooking. Just peeled, remove the pit, slice, drizzle with a little olive oil and salt, and there you have it. But more, avocados and perfect for salads.

Avocados were introduced from Mexico to California in the 19th century, where they proliferated and became an extremely successful cash crop. In fact, Fallbrook, California, claims to be the "Avocado capital of the world." The most common type of California avocado is the Hass variety, which is found everywhere these days. In my clan we like the Mexican /Guantemalan breeds life the Fuerte or Mexicola. These are bigger, have a smooth green skin and, to my palette, a richer nuttier flavor. But our prefer variety are those from Florida (like the type called Spinks) which are larger, rounder, with a smoother flavor.

Avocados got their name from Spanish Explorers who couldn't pronounce the Aztec word for it: "ahuacatl" or "testicle" (because of its pear shape appearance). The Spanish mispronounced it as "aguacate."

Below are 3 quickie avocado salad recipes, all from my cookbook Puerto Rican Cuisine in America (Avalon Books: Thunders Mouth Press). Now, the main question: how can you tell when an avocado is ripe? Simple. It's outer skin will yield to gentle thumb or finger pressure. Eat ripe avocados right away. If they are green and hard, store in a cool place a day or two before using. If you want it to ripen faster, put the avocado in a brown paper bag.

1) GAZPACHO DE AGUACATE: In a bowl, combine 1 large ripe tomato, diced; 1 medium cucumber, diced; 1/2 medium green bell pepper, seeded and diced; 1 small onion, finely sliced; 2 cloves garlic, minced; 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley; 1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil or 1/2 teaspoon dried; 3 tablespoons olive oil; 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar; 1/4 teaspoon oregano; salt and ground black pepper to taste. Mix well and let stand in the refrigerator for15 minutes. Take 3 fully ripened avocados, cut in halve; and place an avocado half on a salad plate with a bed of crisp lettuce leaves. Fill each avocado half with the vegetable mixture and serve. 6 servings.

2) ENSALADA DE AGUACATE Y HONGO: In a mixing bowl, combine 3 tablespoons olive oil, 1 teaspoon red wine vinegar, 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard, 2 cloves minced garlic, salt and pepper to taste. Add 1/2 pound fresh mushrooms, washed and thinly sliced. Mix well. Cut an avocado in half; and cut each half into 1-inch cubes. Add to mushrooms and blend gently. Serve immediately. 4 servings.

3) ENSALADA DE AGUACATE Y JUEYES: In a bowl, combine 1 pound fresh lump crabmeat, 1 cup mayonaise, juice of 1/2 lemon, 2 tablespoons finely chopped onion,1 minced clove garlic, 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley, 1/4 teaspoon dried oregano, salt and pepper to taste. Mix lightly. Cut 2 ripe avocados into slender wedges and squeeze juice of remaining 1/2 lemon over the avocado to prevent discoloration. Place crabmeat in the center of a serving platter. Arrange avocado wedges along with slices of 2 medium tomatoes, alternately, around the crabmeat. Sprinkle avocado and tomatoes with salt; garnish with a few parsley springs and serve.4 servings.

Grilled Whole Fish

2011-07-06T20:21:00.000-04:00

Almost mid-summer, and the grill nuts are proliferating. But how about something unique and different besides the usual steak, hot dogs and franks? I know, some of you adventurous types have even taking to grilling lamb and pork chops. But how about a whole fish? Huh? What you say? Yes, barbecuing a whole fish. In Greece this is a very common procedure. It ain't that hard, kiddies. And the ingenuity and combination of flavors will leave your guests wanting for more.

Any firm fleshed fish will do, bass, striped bass, flounder, rockfish, blue fish, monk fish, or fresh water trout. Have the fishmonger (or fish guy) clean and gut the fish, but with the head kept intact.

In terms of the grill, make sure it's well oiled. Soak a paper towel with canola or vegetable oil, then wipe the grill with it before cooking the fish. This will prevent the burning or sticking of fish to the grill. Also, while grilling, some recommend sprinkling lemon juice over the fish to keep it moist.

So, guys, try grilling something out of the ordinary. Take that leap forward and expand your horizons. Become a real connoisseur of the grill. Besides, fish is brain food. Can't go wrong with that.

GRILLED WHOLE FISH

1 cup diced ripe tomatoes
1/2 cup diced chopped fresh basil leaves
4 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano or 1 teaspoon dried
Ground black pepper to taste
Salt to taste
1 large whole fish or 2 smaller ones, 2 to 3 pound total
1 small lemon, thinly sliced
2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced
1 bay leaf

1. In a bowl, combine tomatoes, basil, 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, garlic powder and oregano. Season to taste with black pepper. Let it sit at room temperature while you prepare the fish.
2. Preheat grill to medium high. Do not use high heat while cooking. High heat will burn the fish on the outside, while leaving the center uncooked.
3. With a sharp knife make 3 or 4 diagonal slashes on each side of the fish. This helps the fish cook evenly. Sprinkle salt liberally over the fish. Rub the fish in and out with remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil. Now, here we have a difference of opinion. Some experts state that no other seasoning should be added since other seasonings, like pepper, will burn on the grill, and give the fish a bitter taste. Other experts state that seasoning the fish with additional pepper, oregano and other spices will enhance the taste. This is your call. If you want it well seasoned, go with it. If not, save the seasonings for the end.
5. Stuff the inside of the fish with lemon slices, garlic, and bay leaf.
4. Place and cook the fish on the grill about 10 minutes. Rule of thumb is fish should cook 8-10 minutes per inch of thickness. Turn and cook the other side 8-10 minutes. It's best, when turning, to gently flip the fish over with 2 spatulas or one long one.
5. Fish is cooked when exterior is crisp and meat will flake easily with a fork. Carefully lift off the grill and set on a platter.
6. Serve fish topped with the tomato-basil mixture.
Yield: 4 servings.

BBQ Satay

2011-06-25T17:48:00.000-04:00

If you're a barbecue or outdoor grill fanatic, and are looking for something different and unique, then nothing fits better than satay. This is a Southeast Asian dish consisting of some pieces of meat, either lamb, chicken, beef, or pork, grilled on a skewer and served with a spiced sauce, usually a peanut sauce. The origins of satay may be Java, Sumatra, or Indonesia, where it's very popular. Indonesians have a http://www.thedaily meal.comvariety of satays, and they are commonly sold by street vendors; and the meats used may range from mutton, to rabbit, to squid.

Given below is a typical recipe for grilled Chicken Satay. If you prefer, pork tenderloins can be used. Just cut them into 1-inch cubes and follow recipe directions

Another piece of trivia: some experts state that the word "satay" is derived from the Minnan-Chinese words sa tae bak ("three pieces of meat.").

CHICKEN SATAY

1/2 cup soy sauce
2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced

1 tablespoon fresh grated ginger root
1/2 teaspoon dried turmeric
1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1/4 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 pounds boneless skinless chicken breast, cut into 1-inch strips
8 (10-to-12 inch) bamboo skewers
1 cup coconut milk or cream
1/2 cup chunky peanut butter
1 tablespoon honey
1/4 teaspoon curry powder

1. In a bowl, combine soy sauce, garlic, ginger, turmeric. red pepper flakes, lemon juice and cumin. Add chicken to the mixture and stir to coat. Cover and marinate in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes or up to 2 hours. Do not marinate overnight. This will make the meat too dark.
2. Meanwhile, soak the skewers in a pan or skillet filled with cold water (or the kitchen sink if it has a stopper) to prevent skewers from burning.
3. Mix coconut milk or cream, peanut butter, honey, and curry in a saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring constantly. Reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, 2 to 4 minutes until sauce thickens. keep warm.
4. Drain chicken, and reserve the marinade for basting. Thread chicken strips accordion-style onto each skewer. Fill up to 3/4 of each skewer so that you have a handle to easily turn the satay during grilling.
5. Grill on a lightly oiled preheated grill over medium-hot coals (or gas grill) 6 to 8 minutes, turning half way through grilling time and brushing with marinade. Serve with warm peanut sauce for dipping.
Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

Tomatoes

2011-06-16T21:54:00.000-04:00

It's summer and juicy, ripe tomatoes are in season. It's what we dream about in the depths of winter when all you can get are those mealy cellophane wrapped tomatoes that taste like sawdust. Then summer comes in with its the glorious abundance of plum tomatoes, beefsteak tomatoes, cherry tomatoes, you name it. In January and February we would kill for one of these. In Summer they are all over the place, and we can't get enough of them.

The season for fresh-picked tomatoes is June through October, the bumper crop time. Tomatoes, besides being tasty, are actually good for you. They are an excellent source of vitamin C, as well as potassium. They also contain what are known as antioxidants (minerals and proteins) which help control blood pressure and prevent the development of such diseases as cancer, heart disease, and rheumatoid arthritis.. They can be fried, broiled, boiled, baked, and prepared in hundreds of ways. They not only bring taste, but also color and nutrition to any dish.

Given below are four simple tomato dishes. Just a sample of the ways you can enjoy this treat.

1. RAW TOMATO SAUCE

In a bowl, combine 1 1/4 pounds chopped plum tomatoes, 1 large handful chopped fresh basil leaves, 2 tablespoons chopped pitted black olives, 1/2 cup diced part-skim mozzarella cheese (or grated pecorino), 1 clove minced garlic, 4 tablespoons olive oil, 1 teaspoon red-wine vinegar, 1 teaspoon dried oregano, and salt and pepper to taste. Cover and let stand at room temperature for 1-2 hours to let the flavors mingle. And serve with freshly cooked pasta of your choice.

2. TOMATO AND OLIVE SALAD

In a bowl, combine about 1 pound diced tomatoes (or cherry tomatoes, halved), 1 bunch sliced scallions, 1/2 cup sliced pimento-stuffed green olives (otherwise known as Spanish olives), 2 tablespoons olive oil, 1 teaspoon red-wine vinegar, 1 teaspoon oregano, and salt and pepper to taste. Serve as a salad, with tortilla chips, or (my favorite) over steamed white rice as a veggie meal.

3. BAKED TOMATOES WITH CHEESE TOPPING

Cut four beefsteak tomatoes in halve horizontally. Top with a slice of mozzarella cheese or grated Parmesan, oregano, salt and pepper to taste. Drizzle with a little olive oil and bake in a preheated oven, 450 degrees F., until tender (about 15 minutes). Yield: 4 servings.

4. SALMON-STUFFED TOMATOES

Combine in a medium-sized bowl, 1 can (8 ounces) salmon, drained. Flake the salmon and combine with 1/4 cup mayonnaise (or salad dressing), 1 tablespoon chili sauce, 1/2 grated small onion, 2 teaspoons lemon juice, 1/2 teaspoon dillweed, 1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce, and 1/8 teaspoon salt. Slice off stem ends of 4 medium tomatoes. Gently scoop out pulp, leaving 1/2-inch wall. Finely chop pulp and combine with salmon mixture. Stuff each tomato with the salmon. Place on a serving platter and chill. Before serving, garnish each with parsley sprigs. Yield: 4 servings.

There you have it, terrific and enjoyable summer tomatoes for picnics, barbecues or even a dinner. Go at 'em.

Domplines - Puerto Rican Dumplings

2011-06-03T17:00:00.000-04:00

Almost every culture has dumplings as a staple. Usually, the dumplings are stuffed with some savory ingredient or other. In our culture we have domplines (pronounced "dom-plee-ness), which are our version of dumplings, except, they are not stuffed. It's more like deep friend dough, which is a common staple in the Caribbean. Other places have it such as in Indian cuisine where they deep fry the dough and call it poori.

In our family, domplines have been with us forever. I remember my grandmother making them for breakfast with eggs, or at lunch or dinner with codfish. They are deceptively easy to make, and quite tasty. Given below is the basic recipe for domplines. If you want to liven up the recipe even more, you can add one or two minced cloves of garlic to the dough. This will give it an extra tang (if desired).The recipe is from my first cookbook, Puerto Rican Cuisine in America (Perseus Books Group: Running Press).

DOMPLINES (Puerto Rican style dumplings)

4 cups flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
2 tablespoons butter
1 cup lukewarm water
1/2 teaspoon salt
Vegetable oil for frying

1. Combine flour, baking powder and butter in a bowl.
2.Add salt to water and add to flour, a bit at a time, while mixing with a wooden spoon until it forms a doughy consistency.
3. Remove this dough to a lightly floured surface and knead continuously with hands until soft.
4. Form kneaded dough into a horseshoe shape and set aside.
5. Fill a cast iron or heavy bottomed skillet halfway with vegetable oil (usually about an inch). Heat until oil is very hot. Break off a small piece of dough and shape into a flat round patty. Drop patty into skillet and stir-fry until golden (about 5 minutes). Repeat until dough is all gone. Remove and drain on absorbent paper towels.
Yield: about 20 dumplings
Note: If a little color is desired, you can add 1/2 teaspoon of ground turmeric to the flour during the first step. This will render truly golden-yellow dumplings.

Cream Vichyssoise Glacee

2011-05-23T15:46:00.000-04:00

I know, it's been a damp, raining, chilly spring, and the rapture didn't happen, and you're all bummed out. But, guess what, pretty soon the hazy, lazy days of summer will be upon us. And what better way to celebrate summer (besides hot dogs and baseball) than with cold soup? That's right, "cold soup," as in that classic dish, vichyssoise (pronounced "Vihsh-ee-SWAHZ"). Also, an added note,the fabled vichyssoise is an American dish. Not French. It's a creamy potato-leek soup that's served cold; and its creator was Chef Louis Diat of the Ritz-Carlton Hotel in New York City. Chef Diat conjured up the dish in 1917.

Still, we must give the French credit since the soup most likely evolved from the leek and potato soup very popular to France, potage bonne teme. In his tome, Cooking a la Ritz, Diat himself states that the name of the soup comes from Vichy, the French town near his childhood home. He calls it Cream Vichyssoise Glacee. Vichyssoise has entered the lexicon along with such nuggets as chicken tetrazzini, egg foo young, and English muffin (another American novelty). Vichyssoise is also very easy to prepare with a blender or food processor. If you desire, you can use scallions instead of leeks. In my version, I like to add cayenne pepper to it instead of ground black pepper. Either way, you can't go wrong with Mr. Diat's creation.

CREAM VICHYSSOISE GLACEE

2 leeks, white part, finely sliced
1 medium onion, peeled and thinly sliced
2-3 tablespoons sweet butter
2 medium potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced
1 cup chicken broth or stock

1 cup milk1 cup light cream
Salt to taste
Cayenne pepper to taste
1/2 cup heavy cream
Finely chopped chives (optional)

1. In a saucepan, gently saute the leeks and onion in butter until soft, about 8 minutes. Do NOT let them brown.
2. Add potatoes, chicken broth or stock, milk, light cream, salt and cayenne pepper. Bring to a boil, and then simmer on low heat for 30-35 minutes.
3. Puree in a blender or food processor until very smooth. Let cool, and stir in the heavy cream. Chill thoroughly before serving. If you prefer, you can add finely chopped chives before serving.
Yield: 4-6 servings.

Tortilla Española

2011-05-05T11:38:00.000-04:00

One of most popular food in the Spanish speaking Caribbean is a tortilla (pronounced: tor-tee-jah) But to us this is very different from the common Mexican-style tortilla. In Mexico, a tortilla is a flat bread; actually a flat thin cake made of corn or flour. Mexican corn tortillas are commonly eaten throughout America and Europe as tortilla chips. They are the mainstay of such dishes as enchiladas, tostadas, and flautas. What we know as the popular "taco" is usually made with a corn tortilla, a staple not only of Mexican cuisine but of Tex-Mex food as well.

A Spanish tortilla is different altogether. It is a round omelet-like egg dish originating in Spain. It is normally made with beaten eggs, pieces of potatoes and other ingredients such as bell peppers, onions and chives. The dish is cooked slowly in a little oil, and served hot or cold. In the Rivera family we have always referred to Spanish tortilla as just a plain Spanish omelet; and we've kept the same family recipe for generations.Only difference is we omit the potatoes. Don't ask me why. That's the way my mother has always prepared it.

So, here follows our version of the Tortilla Española (or Spanish omelet). It's from my first cookbook, Puerto Rican Cuisine in America (Thunders Mouth Press)

TORTILLA ESPAÑOLA (Spanish Omelet)

1/4 cup olive oil
2 medium red onions, peeled and thinly sliced
1 medium green bell pepper, cored, seeded and cut into 1/4-inch strips
1 medium sweet red bell pepper, cored, seeded and cut into 1/4-inch strips
1 clove garlic, peeled and crushed
2 medium tomatoes, coarsely chopped
8 large eggs
1/8 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon dried oregano

1. Heat oil in large non-stick frying pan or skillet. Add onions, green and red peppers and garlic. Stir-fry over moderate heat until vegetables are tender (about 5 minutes).
2. Add tomatoes and cook 3 minutes more.
3. In a bowl, beat eggs lightly and add salt, pepper and oregano.
4. Add eggs to vegetables and cook over moderate-high heat, letting the eggs set in the bottom and sides of the pan.
5. When the eggs start to brown, reduce heat to low and cook until upper part is dry.
6. Here you have a choice, either:
     A. Run a spatula or knife around the outside of the tortilla. Place a large serving plate over the pan and     quickly flip the tortilla onto the plate. Slide the tortilla back into the frying pan and cook until set on the other side (about 10 minutes).
Or:
     B. Place tortilla pan under the broiler and cook for 1 to 2 minutes or until golden brown. (Be sure the pan has an oven-proof handle).
7. Serve the tortilla cut into wedges as you would a pie.
   Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

Dry Chicken without the Teriyaki

2011-04-25T11:21:00.000-04:00

This entry is care of my friend, Paul Goldstein, who, every so often ventures to Thailand so he can get away from the damp and wet of a Seattle winter. He e-mailed me about this recipe, if it can be called that. He was dining was at a small restaurant in Bangkok "around the corner from the Grand Palace and art school" in that city when he came upon this dish. Basically, it's dry teriyaki chicken without the sauce. Add a scoop of white rice and a pile of sliced white ginger, and there you have it. Pablo states that an interesting addition is sweet chili sauce. He does caution that the dish is "not for everyone." But, it's worth a try. The only drawback: white ginger may be hard to get in your area; so just substitute regular ginger. The heart of this simple dish remains the same.

CHICKEN WITHOUT THE TERIYAKI

2 pieces chicken thighs
1 1/2 cups water
2 cups steamed white rice
1 piece fresh ginger (about the size of your thumb), peeled and grated
Sweet chili sauce, optional

1. Wash chicken pieces under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels.
2. Place chicken in pot or pan with water. Bring to a boil, cover and simmer on low heat for 15-20 minutes until chicken thighs are tender.
3. Place a scoop of rice on a plate. Place a chicken thigh on top.
4. Spread some grated ginger on chicken and rice. Serve with sweet chili sauce, if desired.
Yield: 2 servings.

Note: If you desire, instead of boiling the chicken pieces, you can cook them in one tablespoon of oil over medium high heat until done (about 5-7 minutes). Then serve with rice and ginger, as noted. This is for those who prefer fried chicken instead of boiled chicken.

Easter Lamb

2011-04-23T22:43:00.000-04:00

Last year, around Easter, I posted this lamb recipe. It's our favorite in the Rivera family, and it got a good response. So I'm posting it again for this Easter celebration. As noted, then as now, this dish goes well with a good Australian Shiraz, Argentine Malbec, or California Pinot Noir.

Enjoy, kiddies.

PATA DE CORNERO AL HORNO (ROAST LEG OF LAMB)

Leg of lamb, about 5 pounds

3 cloves garlic, peeled and cut into slivers
10 whole black peppercorns
1 tablespoon dried oregano
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon powdered thyme
1/4 teaspoon dried marjoram
2 tablespoons olive oil
4 large potatoes, peeled and quartered

1. Preheat oven to 325 degrees F.
2. Rinse lamb under cold running water and pat dry with paper towel.
3. With a sharp knife make several slits in the lamb. Stud the slits with garlic slivers.
4. Place peppercorns, oregano, salt, thyme and marjoram in a mortar and pound until crushed. Blend in olive oil.
5. Rub seasoning over entire leg of lam.
6. Arrange lamb in A shallow baking pan, fat side up, and bake for 1 hour, basting occasionally. Arrange potatoes around lamb, and continue baking 1 1/2 to 2 hours depending on desired doneness.
Yield: 6 or more servings.

Kugel for Passover

2011-04-13T16:45:00.000-04:00

One of the most festive of Jewish holidays is upon us, Passover. This is the ritual retelling of the liberation of the ancient Hebrews from bondage in Egypt. This is all immortalized in the Passover Seder, that gathering of family and friends to commemorate the occasion. At the Seder table the retelling is done from reading the Haggadah, an ancient work derived from the Mishnah, which is a compendium of Jewish oral tradition.

The Seder table highlights certain foods which are a must for this traditional holiday. Among these is Charoset (my favorite), a mixture of chopped fruits and nuts. It's a brown, lumpy concoction which recalls the mortar used by the Hebrews to build the storehouses of Egypt. Whatever its appearance, it's truly delicious and flavorful. Charoset serves to soften the taste of the bitter herbs (another traditional item) featuring grated horseradish and romaine lettuce. Other dishes served may include matzo ball soup, gefilte fish, roast chicken (another holiday standby), brisket, turkey, and lamb. The latter is popular among Sephardic Jews, that is, those Jews whose descendants hail from the Mediterranean and the Middle East.

The one dish that I enjoy most is kugel, typically considered a side dish. Kugel is a sweet pudding or casserole made from noodles or potatoes. The word itself is Yiddish for "ball." It is Ashkenazi in origin. Ashkenazi Jews are those descended from medieval Jewish communities in Eastern Europe.

The kugel recipe given below is courtesy of my dear friend, Paul Goldstein. Me and Pablo go back a long ways. We first met in the 60s, and both of use are still alive and kicking. Pablo's kugel is so good it can be served on its own. And even if you aren't Jewish, you can still enjoy this savory creation on any occasion---even for Easter.

PABLO'S KUGEL

8 ounces of egg noodles
2 eggs, lightly beaten
2 golden apples, peeled and cut into bite-sized pieces
1 pear, peeled and cut into bite-sized pieces
1/4 cup raisins

1 teaspoon cinnamon

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
2. In a pot or pan, cook noodles according to package directions. Drain and rinse under cold running water, and put back in the pot.
3. Add apples, pear, raisins, eggs and cinnamon. Mix well.
4. Grease a skillet (preferably cast-iron) with butter or margarine. Pour mixture into the skillet, and bake for 1 hour or until top is brown.
Yield: 4 servings

Note: Kugel can be eaten either hot or cold. You can also serve it with apple sauce or sour cream. If you really want to be decadent, try with vanilla ice cream.

Hypatia of Alexandria

2011-04-01T19:28:00.000-04:00

One of the things that confirmed my atheism, and at a very early age I might add, was how the three major religions treat women. In general they treat them like shit. Except for some runaway Protestant denominations, women are still considered inferior and the vessels of sin. It's an antiquated outlook that still permeates our religious establishments. The Catholic Church regards the ordination of women as anathema. They are there to submit and obey. In the Hasidim branch of Judaism, women are not even allowed to pray in the same room as men. They have to wear wigs; only husbands can see their true hair. In Muslin theocracies, such as Iran and Saudi Arabia, women can be stoned to death for such infractions as adultery while, in most cases, the men get off free.

This sad commentary comes to mind when one considers the tale of Hypatia of Alexandria. Her story exemplifies this nutty mind-set as much today as it did in antiquity when Hypatia was around. She was an extraordinary woman who live in Roman Egypt in the late 4th and early 5th centuries. Hypatia was a woman ahead of her time and, perhaps, the first feminist. She was a genius, plain and simple: mathematician, philosopher and astronomer. In the study of geometry she was instrumental in the theorem that divides cones into sections by a plane, thereby developing the concepts of hyperbolas, parabolas and ellipses. She wrote many books on mathematics, including a 13 volume of commentary on the Arithmetica of Diophanyus, the "father of algebra." She also wrote a text, "The Astronomical cannon" which includes the charting of celestial bodies.

Her philosophy was that of pure reason, akin to Transcendentalism, where the ideal is obtained through individual intuition rather than established religious doctrine. She is credited with the invention of the hydrometer, a devise used to determine density and gravity in liquids; and also the astrolabe, used to locate the positions of the planets and stars, and determine latitudes on land.

A Christian Church historian, Socrates Scholasticus, remarks that Hypatia "made such attainments in literature and science, as far as to surpass all the philosophers of the time." She was a renowned teacher and scholar, and many flocked to her seminars. She is also described as being very "beautiful and shapely." So much so that one of her students fell in love with her and could not control his public shows of affection. It's said that Hypatia cured him of his puppy love by showing him rags that had been stained during her period, telling him, "This is what you love, young man, and isn't it beautiful!' The young suitor experienced a change of heart on the spot and went away (one would presume a wiser man).

Her independence, her brilliance, and her open mind is what got her in trouble with (you guessed it) the Church. She had studied with her father, Theon, a famous Greek teacher of mathematics with the Museum of Alexandria. In time, she eclipsed her father in terms of knowledge and philosophy; which was okay by him, since he encouraged her talents. Not all men in Alexandria were that forward thinking. Especially the clergy. Christianity, at this time, was gaining a hold in the Roman Empire. It was a perceived alien religion about to gain dominance in the existing political order. Clashes between pagans and Christians were very common. Into this mix comes the villain of the piece, Cyril, who became Bishop of Alexandria in 412 C.E. He was determined to make Christianity dominant in Alexandria; and he sought to rid the city of pagans and Jews. He was power hungry, and was determined to eliminate any group that did not follow his beliefs. And his main target became Hypatia.

She represented everything abhorred by the Church. She spoke out against Cyril's policy to exile the Jews of Alexandria. More galling, she dressed in the clothing of a scholar or teacher, rather than in woman's clothing. But most troubling of all, she disputed the reigning Aristotelian premise that the sun revolved around the earth. This made the earth the center of the universe, and it was hallowed Church doctrine. Anyone who disputed it, did so at their own peril. What complicated the matter was that Hypatia had the mathematical proofs that affirmed her thesis. But to the Christians, astronomy and mathematics allied her with "black magic" and divination.

And, she refused to be baptized.

At that time, just as in the present day in Iran and other fundamentalist regimes, there were groups of men who roamed the streets. They were the "purity police," and ensured that everyone, especially women, followed protocol. They were merciless fanatics, imbued with fierce and bigoted zeal. Sound familiar? It was a group of these terrorists, during the time of Lent, of course, who waylaid her chariot on her way home. They stripped her naked and scraped the flesh off her bones with sharp oyster shells and pot shards. Then they tore her body apart and scattered the pieces through the streets, before finally burning the body parts.

Though none of her writings survive, modern science regards Hypatia in high esteem. A main belt of asteroids has been named after her (238 Hypatia). There is also a lunar crater called Hypatia. The German mathematician and astronomer, Johannes Kepler, in the 16th century would affirm what is known as the Heliocentric Model of the world using concepts first espoused by Hypatia of Alexandria.

As for Cyril, the Bishop of Alexandria, the monster who incited the mob that killed Hypatia. He was later canonized as a saint by the Catholic Church. Some things never change.

Carrucho

2011-03-19T15:16:00.000-04:00

For the Chinese it is an affinity for abalone. For the Italians it's scungili. We Puerto Ricans call it carrucho. What we are talking about is the flesh found in conch shells. This dish exemplifies the different mindset of different cultures. To most North Americans the conch shell is used solely for ornamentation. To Latinos---as well as people of the Mediterranean and Asia---this mollusk is used for food and ornamentation.

Conch meat cam be found in any Hispanic or Oriental fish market. Most fishmongers order it on request. You can purchase it already cleaned or you can save pennies and do it yourself. The excess film that covers the skin has to be removed. This can be done best under cold running water.

In the Caribbean, caruccho sandwiches are very popular. You can take the dish given below and place it between two slices of bread, or on a roll, on even on a bagel. Or you can serve it with white steamed rice or small red potatoes. It should be noted that the recipe given is from my first cookbook, Puerto Rican Cuisine in America (Avalon Books - Thunders Mouth Press)

CARRUCHO (Conch Meat)

3 pounds conch meat, cleaned
1/4 cup water
Juice of 1 lemon
2 tablespoons salt
8 whole black peppercorns
3 cloves garlic, peeled
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
3 tablespoons white vinegar
1/2 cup olive oil
2 medium onions, peeled and thinly sliced
2 medium ripe tomatoes, cut into wedges
1/4 cup pimento stuffed Spanish olives
1/8 teaspoon sage

1. Place cleaned conch in a bowl. Add 1/4 cup water and lemon juice and let stand for 10 minutes.
2. Remove conch meat to a heavy pot or kettle with water to cover. Add salt and bring to a boil. Lower heat and simmered, covered, for 1 hour.
3. Drain and, when cool enough to handle, cut into small bite-sized pieces. Place in a serving bowl or casserole dish.
4. Crush peppercorns, garlic and oregano in a mortar. Mix with vinegar and olive oil. Add to conch meat.
5. Add onions, tomatoes and olives. Sprinkle with sage and toss well.
6. Cover and let stand for 30 minutes; and serve.
Yield: 4 servings

Buran - Eggplant/Lamb Recipe from the 13th century Arab World

2011-03-07T15:34:00.000-05:00

In these perilous times, in this part of the world, what we hear about Islam and Muslims in general is rather negative. And yes, it's understandable, given the wars we are in. But does anyone realize that, at one time, the tables were turned and while Europe was in the throes of its dark ages, the Islamic world was at the height in terms of science, culture, and government? Not only that, while Medieval western man was dining on rancid meat, in the Arab world, they were dining on savories cooked with spices from China and India and exotic fruit from Central Asia. In the West they subsisted on salted pork, roots plants and fermented ale, if they were lucky. In the Arab world they were using rosewater in their cooking and enjoying truffles from the Arabian Desert.

One of the earliest cookbooks comes from this period. It dates from the 13th century, and its author is a famed gourmet of the time, al-Baghdadi (his whole name is Muhammad ibn al-Hassan Ibn Muhahad ibn al-Karim al-Katib al-Baghdadi). His recipes reflect the times: they are full of spices from the East and are replete with frying, mincing, boiling, staining and stewing, usually all in one pot. Al-Baghdadi's masterworks are lamb recipes. He cooks lamb with rice, with chickpeas, even with noodles. But the recipe given, Buran (my favorite) is simply lamb kabobs served with friend and mashed eggplant.

So, tonight, imagine you're in the court of the Caliphs, you're the prince or princess of Persia and you're dining on Buran, a gastronomic Arab delight.

BURAN

1 medium eggplant, about 1 1/2 pounds, peeled and cut lengthwise into 1/2-inch slices
1 pound ground lamb
1/4 cup sesame oil
1/2 cup vegetable oil
Salt to taste
1/4 teaspoon ground coriander
1 cup plain yogurt
2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1. Cook the eggplant in boiling salted water for 5 to 6 minutes. Drain and let stand at least 1 hour.
2. Meanwhile, use wet and oily hands to shape the lamb into small meatballs (about 20 to 30 kabobs). Heat the sesame oil in a large skillet and fry the meatballs over medium-high heat until well browned (about 10 minutes). Cover with water, bring heat to low and simmer until most of the water has evaporated and only some of the oil is left. Set aside and reserve.
3. Heat the vegetable oil in a large skillet (or use the same skillet from before), and fry the eggplant over medium heat until golden on both sides. The frying may be done in several batches with more oil being added as needed. Place the eggplant in a bowl and mash with a ladle or large spoon. Add salt, coriander, yogurt, garlic, and mix well.
4. Transfer the eggplant to a serving dish, arrange the meatballs on top, sprinkle with cumin and cinnamon, and serve.
Yield: 4 servings.

Eggplant Parmesan/Provencal

2011-02-21T12:13:00.000-05:00

Back in Spanish Harlem, in our family's repertoire, one of the standby dishes was Eggplant Parmesan. Although we didn't call it that. We are vociferous eggplant eaters, and the dish was just another version which we knew as eggplant Italian style because we added grated cheese. To us, back then, any dish that had Parmesan cheese in it was considered Italian; just like any dish that had soy sauce was considered Chinese. It was the innocence of the meat and potato days of yore.

What made our version delectable is that it contained crispy friend eggplant, which we loved. Add a little tomato sauce, grated Parmesan, some good crusty bread and you has a great meal. Later in life, I discovered the French Eggplant Provencal, which was the same damn thing minus the cheese. You just add some capers to it and baked the eggplant instead of frying. Also, to the French, Eggplant Provencal is normally served as an appetizer. Whichever method you use, if you're an eggplant lover, you'll savor the meal. And, even if you don't like eggplant, you just might change your mind.

EGGPLANT PARMESAN

1 medium-sized eggplant (about 1-1/2 pounds), peeled and cut into 1/2-inch slices
1/2 cup flour
1 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 teaspoon oregano
1/2 cup olive oil or vegetable oil (or more for frying)
3 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
1/2 cup canned tomato sauce, heated

1. Blend flour, salt, pepper and oregano on a plate or piece of wax paper and coat each eggplant slice well with mixture.
2. Heat half of the olive oil in a heavy skillet, and fry as many slices of eggplant as can be accommodated without crowding until crisp and brown on both sides. Transfer slices to a shallow heat-proof platter or pie plate, and keep warm.
3. Add remaining oil to skillet and brown rest of eggplant slices. Sprinkle half of browned eggplant in platter with a tablespoon grated Parmesan cheese. Add remaining slices and second tablespoon of cheese.
4. Pour hot sauce over and around eggplant. Sprinkle with remaining cheese, place under a hot broiler from 3 to 4 minutes, and broil briefly until cheese melts and is slightly brown.

EGGPLANT PROVENCAL

1 medium-sized eggplant (about 1-1/2 pounds), peeled and cut into 1/2-inch slices
1 cup olive oil
1 clove garlic, peeled
1/2 cup canned tomato sauce
1 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 teaspoon oregano
1/2 cup capers

1. Preheat oven to 450 degrees F.
2. Dip eggplant slices in olive oil, and arrange on a flat baking pan or dish (I prefer cast-iron). Bake 10-15 minutes or until tender.
3. Crush garlic and brown lightly in a little olive oil in a small saucepan. Add tomato sauce and cook until hot. Remove from heat and season with salt, pepper and oregano.
4. Pour sauce over eggplant, sprinkle with capers and serve hot or cold.

For both recipes the yield is about 4 servings.

Shallow Fried Fish

2011-02-04T14:42:00.000-05:00

The Chinese Lunar New Year is upon us. The year of the Golden Rabbit. Chinese New Year has always featured traditional foods which are served to commemorate the event. In the south of China it's stir-fried lettuce and Cantonese shrimp; in southern Taiwan it's crab rolls; in northern China it's fried dumplings. Always every meal includes a fish dish. One of my favorite fish meals for this time of year, or any time for that matter, is shallow fried fish. It's very easy to make and includes a technique called "shallow frying." This type of cooking has been popular in China, I'm told, for many years. So, tonight, give tradition its due, and pay homage to friends and ancestors, with an entree that's bound to please everyone.

Be aware that this recipe calls for a whole fish. That's right: whole---with head intact. Almost any variety of fish can used: blue fish, tilapia, mackerel, flounder, mullet, tilefish, red snapper, stripe bass, etc. Just make sure the fish is scaled, gutted and clean (but with head kept on). For this kind of cooking, a wok is perfect; but any large skillet or pan can also be used. Note that this fish goes well with steamed rice or noodles.

SHALLOW FRIED FISH

1 whole fish, 1 1/2 to 2 pounds
1 teaspoon salt per pound of fish

2 tablespoon peanut oil (or olive oil)
1 teaspoon sugar

1 piece of ginger, approximately about an inch, peeled and minced
2 tablespoons soy sauce (preferably light soy sauce)
2 tablespoons dry white wine, or dry sherry
2 tablespoons water
2 stalks scallions, finely chopped

1. Rinse the fish under cold running water and dry with paper towels. Rub it well inside and out with salt.
2. Heat the wok at a high temperature. Add the oil and tilt the wok until all the bottom is covered with oil. Lower heat to medium-low.
3. Add the fish, and tilt the wok at different angles to let the fish catch the heat evenly. BE PATIENT and cook for about 10 minutes. Additional drops of oil may be added, if needed, to prevent the fish from burning and sticking to the bottom of the wok. Turn the fish and cook the other side for about 10 minutes. When the fish is well browned (that means its done), carefully take out the fish, and clean the wok with paper towels.
4. Heat wok again, add sugar, ginger, soy sauce, wine, water, and scallions. Add fish and tilt the wok to let this mixture surround the fish. Cook on medium heat for 1 minute. Turn the fish and cook the other side for 1 minute. Remove from wok and serve, spooning the sauce over the fish.
Yield: 4 servings.

Stuffed Plantain Balls

2011-01-28T14:53:00.000-05:00

I love plantains, especially green plantain, the type that we prepare in fritters called tostones. But you also have ripe plantains; essentially green plantains that have ripened to a deep, dark yellowish color. Some people prefer the ripe plantain since they give a sweeter flavor. In my family we prefer tostones. Although once in a while we cook ripe plantains with eggs for breakfast; or in a traditional dish called pinon (pronounced peen-yon) , a layered casserole of ripe plantains, beef and kidney beans.

Another of our favorite uses of ripe plantains is cheese-stuffed plantain balls. Think of it as fallafel balls but with cheese inside and a luscious, sweet exterior. Believe me, once you've had these plantain balls, you'll be hooked. They can be served as an appetizer or as a main entree accompanied by rice---a perfect vegan dish.

CHEESE-STUFFED PLANTAIN BALLS

6 ripe plantains, unpeeled and cut in half widthwise
8 cups water
Salt to taste
1/4 cup butter
2 tablespoons cornstarch plus cornstarch for shaping balls
1/2 pound cheddar cheese, shredded
Oil for deep frying (vegetable oil, corn oil, canola oil, olive oil, etc.)

1. Drop the plantain halves into boiling salted water and cover. Cook rapidly for 20 minutes. Drain. Peel the plantains and mush the pulp. Add the butter and 2 tablespoons cornstarch and mix well. Let cool enough to handle.
2. To shape the balls, coat the palms of the hands with cornstarch. Pick up about 1 tablespoon of the pulp (or 1 teaspoon, depending on the size desired) and flatten slightly between the palms. Add a portion of the cheese and mold the plantain around it, shaping the whole into a ball. Repeat until all the balls are formed. Be aware that you can make the balls as large or as small as you desire. In the Rivera family we like big plantain balls. Other folk may prefer smaller variations similar to Swedish-type meatballs.
3. Heat the oil for deep frying. Drop the balls into the oil and cook until golden. Remove and drain on paper towels.
Yield: 8 to 12 balls, depending on size.

Caldo Gallego

2011-01-17T20:02:00.001-05:00

Great. Back to recipes. Today it's Caldo Gallego For those of you who've been to Spain recently, this will probably be familiar. For those who haven't been to Spain, then you're in for a treat.

Caldo Gallego (Cal-doh Gah-jeh-goh) is a dish that is very popular in Puerto Rico. Even in Ponce, in the southern part of the island, where my parents hail from, the measure of a good restaurant is not its arroz con pollo or mofongo, it's the quality of its Caldo Gallego. This is a vigorous soup that was brought over from Galicia, a historic region in northwest Spain. I'm told that in Galicia the base for this rich broth is an aged bacon called unto (oon-toh). Since you may not find it here, lean cured ham and/or salt pork can be used instead. Also, in Spain the soup is cooked in a large earthenware pot and is served in earthenware bowls. For those who don't have earthenware, any heavy pot or kettle can be used, like a caldera (a heavy pot made from cast-iron or cast aluminum and found in any Caribbean store). And, yes, regular soup plates will do. Add a loaf of good bread, and you have the perfect repast. Simple, delicious, and filling.

Let me add that the recipe is from my first cookbook, Puerto Rican Cuisine in America (Thunder's Mouth Press). The soup needs long, gentle cooking time ( about 3 hours). But it's worth the wait.

CALDO GALLEGO (Galician Style Broth)

1/2 pound dry white beans
3 ounces lean cured ham or salt pork, washed and diced
1/2 pound smoked ham, washed and cut into bite-sized pieces
1 small onion, peeled and sliced in rounds
1 pound potatoes, peeled and quartered
3 turnips, rinsed and quartered
1 10-ounce package frozen turnip greens
Salt and ground black pepper to taste

1. Rinse beans under cold running water and drain.
2. Place beans in a large kettle or Dutch oven. Add water to cover, cured ham, smoked ham and onion. Bring to a boil, cover and simmer on low heat for 2 hours.
3. Add remaining ingredients and gently stir to mix. Bring to a second boil, cover and simmer on low heat for 1 more hour. If needed, you can add more water during last hour of cooking. It depends on how "soupy" you want it.
Yield: 6 to 8 servings.

The Trouble with Google

2011-01-08T10:07:00.003-05:00

This is my first post of the new year and, honestly, it wasn't what I expected to write about. But recently I've encountered a problem which, I've discovered, is not unusual to those of us who blog and comment and make use of the internet. My problem, in essence, is with that gargantuan entity, Google. Now, don't get me wrong, this is not a blanket condemnation of the service. Google, for all intents and purposes, is a marvelous tool that, yes, has made our lives easier and more productive. I would be among the first to acknowledge that. It has changed the way we think and interact and, for the most, we are better for it. My concern is that this marvelous search engine, in all its encompassing growth, may have deviated from of its original goal to help, to assist, to "do no harm."

My problem began on December 10th, when I received a notice from Google that there was "unusual activity on my account." The notice stipulated the steps I would have to follow in order to rectify the situation. Accordingly, I followed these instructions in order to reset my account. Part of it was using a reset number during the procedure. After receiving confirmation that all was well, I went back to my usual tasks on the computer. However, I discovered I could not access my blog. Try as I might, I could not sign in. My blog information had simply disappeared. I contacted the Google help number (650 253-000). I was informed (by a recorded message) that I would have to go to www.google.com/support for assistance. Which I did. I wrote in on the line asking what the problem was by stating that my blog had disappeared and I couldn't access any of my material. The answer I received was that my problem "did not match answers in the accounts help." I kept on trying, keeping my notes as short as possible, still, nothing matched the "accounts help." In one instance I was forwarded to another site where they would take a look-see at my account, but for a fee of $35.

The end point is that Google was no help whatsoever in solving my dilemma. I had to contact my tried and true tech guy (www.hardrivedoctor.us/) who had to literally hack into Google in order for me to acquire my blog material going back two years. A twelve (12) hour job, and very expensive. Subsequently, checking on various sites I have discovered that I am not the only one who has encountered this problem; and, in all cases, no assistance was forthcoming. Truthfully, I was appalled by the lack of consideration and/or access via Google. So, I wrote them a scathing letter, stipulating that a copy would be forwarded to the Federal Communications Commission. And guess what? The following day my tech guy calls me up and states that my blog had magically re-appeared---and he couldn't figure out why or how. Had Google just gotten my blog back in a timely manner I would have been spared a lot of aggravation and expense.

Now, I know I'm not the only one who's had this kind of hassle. But, man, if this keep up, Google may suffer a black eye, at least in PR terms as it moves forward in the corporate arena.

Also, I would love to hear from anyone else who has had this kind of incident with Google. Again, my aim is not to disrupt or cast aspersions on anyone. As stated, in the first paragraph, Google does a marvelous job (most of the time). I just would like to hear and catalogue whatever comes along.

A happy new year to everyone. And thanks all for the great response to my pasteles video.

Making Pasteles for those special occasions

2010-12-05T19:23:00.014-05:00

As previously promised on this Blog .. MORE Videos !

This time, it is the Art of Making Pasteles.
These Pictures will take you to the YouTube Videos

Cooking with Oswald Rivera: Pasteles Part 1

Cooking with Oswald Rivera: Pasteles Part 2

Please enjoy the Videos .. More to come at a later time.

Special Thanks to Holly and the Hard Drive Doctor.

Rice Pudding

2010-12-03T13:52:00.003-05:00

For the holidays we Puerto Ricans have our own versions of desserts. The most popular is arroz con dulce. Simply, rice pudding. The literal translation of arroz con dulce is "sweetened rice." A more appropriate term would be sweet coconut rice. Coconut milk is the main component of the dish. In my first cookbook, Puerto Rican Cuisine in America, I give the recipe using a fresh ripe coconut. If you want to be traditional and use a genuine coconut, you are welcomed to get the book and try the recipe. For those who don't have the time to crack open and prepare a coconut, I give below a quicker recipe using canned coconut milk or cream. In either case, the recipe is marvelous and delicious. Believe me, this is not your ordinary rice pudding recipe. As a dessert, it sets the bar pretty high.

ARROZ CON DULCE (Rice Pudding)

2 cups either long grain or short grain rice
2 cups canned coconut milk or cream
1 5-ounce can evaporated milk
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground cloves
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/2 cup seedless black raisins
1 1/2 cups brown sugar
1 teaspoon butter or margarine
1/2 cup cracker crumbs

1. Wash rice at least three times in cold water and drain to rid it of starch. What in Pennsylvania Dutch country is known as "washing in several waters."
2. In a heavy kettle or pot, heat one cup water. When it comes to a roiling boil, add rice, coconut milk, evaporated milk, cinnamon, cloves, salt, vanilla, raisins, sugar and butter. Cook on moderate heat, stirring frequently with a wooden spoon, for 35 minutes or until rice is tender and most of the liquid has been absorbed.
3. Spoon into a round serving platter or large pie plate.
4. Sprinkle with cracker crumbs and allow to cool at room temperature before serving.
Yield: 10 0r more servings.

Boricua Trukey

2010-11-21T11:11:00.004-05:00

Last year at about this time I posted The Puerto Rican Thanksgiving Turkey. Our version of the holiday bird. I noted that we spice it differently and make it more flavorful so that it tastes like roasted pork, or pernil, the main holiday staple back on the island in the days of yore.

Here it is again, turkey a la criolla (creole style). A note on the term "Boricua." A Boricua (bo-ree-kuah) is an inhabitant of the island of Borinquen, the native Taino Indian name for Puerto Rico. Hence a Boricua is a native born Puerto Rican. However, these days we take the term to mean anyone of Puerto Rican descent, whether they were born on the island or not.

PAVO RELLENO A LA CRIOLLA
(Stuffed Roast Turkey)

1 8 1/2-pound dressed-weight turkey
5 cloves garlic, peeled
6 whole black peppercorns
1 tablespoon dried oregano
4 teaspoons salt
1 cup olive oil
4 tablespoons paprika
1/4 cup vinegar
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 1/2-pounds lean ground beef
1 packet sason accent (Goya makes a good one with coriander and annatto)
1/2 cup stuffed Spanish olives
4 tablespoons capers
1/2 cup tomato sauce

1. Rinse and wash turkey, inside and out, and wipe dry. Do the same with the heart, liver and gizzard, and then chop innards coarsely. This will be combined with the ground beef when preparing the stuffing.
2. Pound together the garlic, peppercorns, oregano and 3 teaspoons salt in a mortar. Add 1/2 cup olive oil, 2 tablespoons paprika, vinegar and combine. Rub the turkey with the seasoning inside and out---what my mother calls "adobar el pavo" (seasoning the beast). This should be done a day ahead (the turkey should be left overnight, in a covered pot, in the refrigerator). This will allow it to absorb the flavors.
3. Heat vegetable oil in a frying pan or skillet. Add the ground beef and cook over high heat, stirring frequently, until the meat loses its color. Reduce heat to medium-low and stir in the sason accent, olives, capers, tomato sauce and remaining teaspoon salt. Cook for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally to complete cooking the stuffing.
4. Remove from heat and let cool. Stuff the turkey loosely about three quarters full. Truss the turkey (sew or skewer together the neck and bind the legs.)
5. Place the turkey in a roasting pan breast side down. To insure a golden brown exterior combine the remaining 2 tablespoons paprika with the remaining olive oil in a small bowl. Brush the entire turkey with this mixture and roast in a slow to moderate oven (325 degrees F.) for 3 1/2 hours. To brown bird, raise temperature to 350 degrees during the last 25 minutes of cooking. This is an excellent way of cooking if in doubt as to the tenderness of the meat. Some people prefer covering the turkey with aluminum foil while roasting, and removing this during the last 25-30 minutes of cooking time to brown the skin. I find that frequent basting during cooking gets the same results.
Baking theories abound. There is the old traditionalist view that allows 1 1/2 hours for the first pound and then 25 minutes per pound up to 7 pounds and 20 minutes per pound after that. Thus a 5 pound bird would take 3 hours and 10 minutes, a 7 pounder would take 4 hours and 10 minutes, and a 10 pound bird 5 hours and 10 minutes. But in my view, there's no set rule. Some birds take more time to roast, some less. In the Rivera family we go by general common sense: figure a 7 to 8 pounder takes 3 1/2 to 4 hours to cook; a 10 pounder maybe 4 1/2 hours, and a 12 pound turkey maybe 5-5 1/2 hours. Rule of thumb: turkey is done when drumstick and thigh move easily.
6. For gravy: remove turkey from roasting pan and keep warm. Drain drippings from roasting pan into a sauce pan. Skim off fat but retain 1/4 cup of the drippings. Add 2 cups water or 1/2 cup dry white wine and 1 1/2 cups water to pan drippings. Bring to a boil over high heat while stirring in the 1/4 cup fat. Lower heat and thicken slightly with a little cornstarch and water combined. If you want to reduce the grease content, mix 3 teaspoons of cornstarch with 3 tablespoons of water. Add this to the strained pan drippings and heat, thereby omitting the remaining fat content.
Yield: 6 to 7 servings.
Note: serve with a light Valpolicella wine, lightly chilled; a full-bodied red such as a Zinfandel or Rioja; a white Burgundy with a full and flowery bouquet; or even a good-bodied ale.

Latkes - Reprise

2010-11-16T10:02:00.003-05:00

Last year about this time I put up my recipe for Puerto Rican latkes. We discovered latkes from our Jewish friends when they celebrated Chanukah (also known as Hanukkah). We Latinos love every manner of fritters and, to us, that's what latkes were. In our family we soon started making our own, Caribbean version. We make then every year and we grew to love them. While experimenting with them, we also discovered that if you add some grated carrots to the recipe, it enhances the flavor.

So, here again are potato latkes, Puerto Rican style.

POTATO LATKES (RIVERA FAMILY STYLE)

3 large potatoes
1 small onion, chopped fine
3 eggs
1/4 cup grated carrots
2 tablespoons matzo meal
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
1/4 teaspoon oregano
2 tablespoons parsley, chopped
Oil for frying (I use a combination of vegetable oil and olive oil, 1/2 cup or more)

1. peel the potatoes and grate them into a bowl. You can do it by hand (the traditional method) or by using a food processor. Squeeze out the extra liquid into the sink.
2. Add onion, eggs, carrots, matzo meal, salt, pepper, oregano and parsley. Mix well.
3. In a large heavy skillet (I prefer cast-iron), heat the oil. Using a tablespoon, carefully drop the potato mixture into the hot oil and fry until browned on both sides, turning only once (about 3 minutes per side). Some prefer to flatten each latkes with a spoon. Use whatever method you desire. The latkes should not only be golden but crispy.
4. Drain on paper towel and serve with applesauce, sour cream or preserves.
Yield: about 2 dozen or more latkes.

Sofrito

2010-11-08T14:47:00.006-05:00

Sofrito. I love the word: "Soh-free-toh." Without it, Puerto Rican cuisine would be scant indeed. It is an aromatic mix of herbs and spices that is a base for cooking countless dishes. This concept can be found in other cultures as well. Think of garam masala, the Indian mix that is also used a a base flavoring. Or kimchi in Korean cusine. We use sofrito when cooking chicken, fish, pork, beef, you name it---almost everything except desserts.

Sofrito can be whipped up in a few minutes in a blender or food processor. The word itself is a generic term that has no correct English translation. "Frito" is Spanish means fried. Sofrito could be taken to mean stir-fried, although this would not be entirely accurate. Sofrito can be stored in a closed, tight jar or container in the refrigerator for 3 to 4 days or, in the freezer compartment, indefinitely. It's the kind of product where the basic recipe can be doubled or tripled, depending on how much you may want to use. Given below is a quick recipe.

Sofrito

8 leafy stems of cilantro (available almost anywhere these days)
1 medium green bell pepper (pimento)
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 medium onion, coarsely chopped
1/4 pound aji dulce (small, sweet chili peppers found in most bodegas or Asian stores and sold
loose by the handful or in packets of 1/2 to 1/4 pound. A 1/4 pound packet contains about 28
peppers) They should be sliced in half with inner seeds removed.
6 whole leaves recao, chopped (recao is a small, green stemmed herb also found in Caribbean
and Asian markets). If you don't have recao, you can substitute curly parsley. In the Cuban
version of sofrito they disregard recao altogether. Let you tastebuds be the judge.

Combine all the ingredients in a blender and puree until it has a smooth, sauce-like consistency, adding 1 tablespoon of olive oil or vegetable oil while pureeing. This will yield about 1 1/3 cups.
In terms of storing sofrito, a great idea is to freeze it in ice trays. A regular size ice cube is equal to approximately 2 tablespoons of sofrito. You simply plop a cube into the skillet or stew pot, and it's much easier than scooping out tablespoons of the stuff from a can in the freezer.

Okay, how do you use it? Simple. You can just add it as is to a stew or soup to enhance its flavor; or to a pot of beans, or almost any other dish to give that added kick. If you want to make flavorful, colorful rice, saute 1 or 2 tablespoons sofrito in 1 tablespoon olive oil or corn oil for about a minute or so to blend the diverse flavors. Add 1 tablespoon of tomato sauce or tomato paste and cook a minute or 2 longer. Add rice, water, and cook as you normally would. It makes plain white rice LUXURIOUS.

A final note. There are now on supermarket shelves many erzats sofrito products. Skip 'em. All you're getting are chemicals and assorted crap. Nothing beats homemade sofrito. Besides, it's so easy to make.

The Color of Rice

2010-11-01T13:08:00.003-04:00

My friends marvel when I serve them rice pilaf or yellow rice dishes. Invariably they ask: what colors the rice? It's a complex question, depending upon the dish. Fragrant colored rice has been in my culture since the beginning. It was the Spaniards who got the method from the Moors, when the Arabs introduced saffron as a flavoring and coloring agent in Southern Spain. Saffron is still the best thing around---but it's expensive. If you can afford it, more power to you. All you do is add a few strands of the stuff to the rice while it's boiling to get that great arroz amarillo (yellow rice) hue.

My parents came from the Greatest Generation (as it is called by some). So, during the Great Depression, they and their fellows developed equitable shortcuts to using safron (which they couldn't get and, even if they could, they couldn't afford it). Below are easy, ready to use alternatives that give rice whatever color you want; and also add to its flavor. I've used these alternatives, at one time or another, depending upon my financial condition, and it's given me a marvelous rice dish every time.

Achiote - This is simply annatto seeds cooked in vegetable oil or olive oil. It's our favorite product for coloring food. You can find it in most supermarkets in 8-ounce jars. Annatto is the pulp of the tropical tree Bixa orellana; and annato dye is used in coloring some cheeses. To prepare: just cook 1 tablespoon annatto seeds in 1/2 cup olive oil, on low heat, stirring frequently for 5 minutes. During cooking, the oil will turn a bright orange-red. The longer the seeds steep in oil, the deeper the hue. Remove from heat, let cool, and strain into a glass jar or container. You can keep it in the fridge indefinitely. Use as you wish, from 1 to 3 tablespoons when cooking rice, depending on the color you want to attain.

Tomato Sauce and Tomato Paste - This will do when you don't have annatto seeds. But, depending on how much you use, it will render a more reddish color to the rice. Now, experts in my family contend that tomato sauce will give a better color, while tomato paste will give a better flavor. It's all a matter of personal preference. To prepare: cook 1/3 or more cup tomato sauce, or 2-3 tablespoons tomato paste, in 3 tablespoons olive oil. If you want to enhance the flavor, you can add 1 small chopped onion and/or 1-2 cloves finely diced garlic. When you reached desired consistency, add a couple of cups of rice. Stir to mix, add water, bring to a boil, lower heat, cover, and cook the rice as you normally would.

Tumeric - This spice is known as Indian saffron, since it's widely used as an alternative for the more expensive saffron. You get it in the supermarket in the form of a dry root powder. It not only adds a custard-like yellow color to rice but it also impart a distinct flavor. Tumeric is extremely strong, and it gets stronger as it cooks. A little goes a long way. Be judicious in its use. As noted, it's a powerful yellow dye, so try not to stain your apron or clothes with it while cooking. To use: just add 1 teaspoon (or more, but be careful) to two cups of rice when it comes to a boil. Cover and simmer as you normally would.

Dry mustard - That's right, dry yellow mustard in the powdered form. I know. You're thinking about mustard on hot dogs, burgers, etc.; but mustard, in its own right, adds great flavor and color to foods. Like tumeric, it tends to be strong. Figure it this way, you can substitute 1 teaspoon of dry yellow mustard for 1 teaspoon tumeric. Just add to rice when it comes a boil, cover, and cook as instructed.

Parsley - For green rice. Yes, it's hard being green. But in rice it's okay. Adds another dimension and flavor to the dish. Simple: take 1 bunch of parsley (I prefer the curly Italian type parsley), wash and chop finely (by hand, or in a food processor). Saute it in 2-3 tablespoons olive oil with a couple of finely chopped garlic cloves thrown in. To enhance the flavor you can even add a chicken bouillon cube, and (if you want) 3 tablespoons light cream. Add rice, water, and cook as you normally wood. It will give you deliciously green-hued rice.

Black Rice (Arroz con Calamares) - This is rice cooked with squid or cuttlefish. The color comes from the dark color imparted to the grains as they cook with the squid in its ink. It's a favorite in my crowd. The trick here is that the rice will come out darker if canned squid is used. 4-ounce cans of squid in their ink can be found in most supermarkets or Asian and Caribbean stores. To prepare: saute, in 2 tablespoons olive oil, 1 green bell pepper (cored seeded and chopped), 1 small onion (chopped), and 1 clove garlic (finely minced). Add 1/2 cup tomato sauce, and 1 chicken bouillon cube. Stir in 3 cans squid in this ink plus 6 pimento stuffed Spanish olives. Stir in 2 cups rice, water to cover by about 1/4-inch, season with salt and pepper, bring to a boil, and cook until liquid is absorbed (about 20-25 minutes).

There you have it, friends, different and varied ways to add delicious color to your rice dish. Experiment, see which one you like best---and enjoy!

Pumpkin Gratin

2010-10-30T11:10:00.003-04:00

Halloween is upon us yet again. And the jack-o-lanterns are out. Anybody ever consider cooking those suckers? I would not recommend it. The traditional pumpkin used as a jack-o-lantern motif makes for a flavorless, insipid dish. That's why they are used for decorations. In my culture, pumpkin are prized as bianda or cooked root plants that we use to enhance a meal. Traditionally, our favorite pumpkin dish is very simple: slice a piece of pumpkin, peel, remove seeds, and boil until tender. Then serve with olive oil and vinegar.

But I've experimented with pumpkin dishes and found that they make a great gratin. A gratin (pronounced grah-tan) comes from French cooking. It is a dish prepared with a brown crust. My pumpkin gratin is quick and easy to make, and it's tasty to boot. Again, use small available commercial pumpkin, not the Halloween type or, better yet, you can use winter squash or butternut squash.

So, here goes Le gratin de Courge, as our French brethren would say. It makes a fabulous side dish or accompaniment to any meal.

PUMPKIN GRATIN

2 to 2 1/2 pound pumpkin, butternut, or other winter squash, halved, seeded, peeled, and cut
into 1/2-inch cubes
1/4 cup flour
1/3 cup olive oil
8 garlic cloves (yes, 8), finely chopped
3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
1/4 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano (or pinch dried)

1. Preheat oven to 325 degrees F.
2. Toss the pumpkin or squash cubes in the flour until they are evenly coated.
3. Generously oil the bottom and sides of an ovenproof casserole, Dutch oven, or cast-iron pan (you will have some oil left over). Fill the casserole with the pumpkin or squash. Then scatter the garlic and parsley over it, and season with salt, pepper, and oregano. Sprinkle the remaining oil over the pumpkin or squash.
4. Place in oven and bake for 2 to 2 1/2 hours or until the top has formed a rich dark crust. Note that it's not necessary to add water during cooking since the pumpkin or squash produces enough liquid on its own.
Yield: 4 servings.

Chicken Noodle Soup (P.R. Style)

2010-10-16T10:42:00.005-04:00

Chicken noodle soup. What is lovingly termed "Jewish penicillin." We Puerto Ricans have our own version of it, and just as good. We use noodles, which are called fideos (fee-deh-os). These noodles are thin coiled strands similar to angel's hair or vermicelli. People back on the island, in the old days, read the package name and took it to mean any kind of noodles. In time fideos became the most popular pasta in both the island and the mainland. It's use is mainly in soups. When Puerto Ricans first migrated to New York back in the 1940s and 50s, and went shopping, they wouldn't ask for noodles, they would ask for fideos. It was the only pasta pasta we knew, apart from spaghetti.

I would say our chicken noodle soup is as healthy and beneficial as its Jewish counterpart; and it has a particular Latin flavor. As noted, if you can't find the fideos, any thin strand pasta will do as well. You can find this recipe (and others) in my cookbook, Puerto Rican Cuisine in America (Avalon Books).

SOPA DE POLLO CON FIDEOS (Chicken Noodle Soup)

1 broiler fryer (about 2-2 1/2 pounds, cut in parts)
2 quarts (8 cups) water
1/2 pound fideos #169 (see above)
2 medium Idaho or Maine potatoes, cut into 1-inch cubes
1 packet Sason Goya (coriander and annatto---found in any supermarket these days)
1 chicken bouillon cube
1/4 cup tomato sauce
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
2 tablespoons fresh chopped parsley

1. Rinse chicken under cold running water and pat dry.
2. Place chicken in a large kettle or Dutch oven and add water. Bring to a boil, lower heat and simmer, covered, for 1 hour or until chicken is very tender.
5. Remove chicken to a cutting board and let cool. Bone chicken, discarding bones and skin. Cut meat into bite-size pieces
4. Add chicken pieces, fideos, potatoes, Sason Goya, bouillon cube and tomato sauce to the broth. Add another cup of water, if needed, and season with salt and pepper.
6. Bring to a boil, cover and simmer on low heat for 15 minutes. garnish with parsley.
Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

Hummus

2010-09-22T16:50:00.005-04:00

When I was a youngster growing up back on the block, we never heard of hummus. It wasn't until my early adult-hood that I became aware of this Middle Eastern savory. Today its is ubiquitous. You see it everywhere. No party, wedding, birthday bash, or social function would be complete without it. It's used as a spread, dip, or pita filling. Most people get it in the supermarket, with all the additives that come with it to preserve shelf-life. However, some of us would never buy the store bought stuff. Why? Because it is so EASY to make. Ten minutes, top, and you have grade A hummus.

Hummus is a concoction of chick peas (garbanzo beans), Tahini, or sesame seed paste. I use Tahini, which can be found in any store and is simply pureed roasted sesame seeds. Apart from using hummus as dip or over veggies, I like it over rice. Try it. It'll spice up the old grain. But my favorite hummus recipe is with pasta and olives. Simple: cook any tubular pasta (penne, macaroni, rigatoni, ditalini, etc.) as per package directions. Drain, then add a cup of hummus, and one (6-oz) can medium or large black olives (drained under cold running water to remove excess salt, and sliced). Mix it all together, and you have a great, delish pasta dish. Quick and Nutritious.

Of course, you need to make the hummus first. So, here is my quick hummus recipe. You'll never buy the shelf stuff ever again.

BASIC HUMMUS

1 (15-oz) can garbanzo beans (chick peas)
1/3 cup Tahini
1/4 cup lemon juice
3 cloves garlic, peeled and halved
ground black pepper to taste
1 teaspoon olive oil

1. Place all ingredients, except the olive oil, in a blender or food processor. Blend until smooth.
2. Transfer to a serving bowl or dish. Drizzle olive oil over the mixture and serve.
Yield: about 2 cups (the recipe can be doubled for additional servings)
NOTE: Some people like to add cumin (about 1 teaspoon) and a pinch of paprika to the recipe for a more pronounced Middle Eastern flavor. Do whatever suits you best.

Zemanta">

Fried Green Plantains (Tostones)

2010-09-09T18:33:00.011-04:00

Please enjoy the Video: If you can not see it click here

I enjoyed making this video with my good friend this week.

The Hard Drive Doctor

We plan on doing more Cooking Videos as time passes.

Rossana Rossi's Red Clam Sauce

2010-09-08T11:45:00.003-04:00

One of my dear friends, Rossana Rossi, had sent me (at my request) a delicious clam sauce. It is truly scrumptious. Now, in her recipe, fresh clams are used. If you don't want the bother or trouble of shucking fresh clams, I guess you can buy chopped or whole clams from a jar at the supermarket. But, I tell ya, it ain't the same. The taste and texture of fresh clams is unequal in this dish.

As to the type of clams used? There is a variety. You got Chowder clams that are used for (you guessed it) clam chowder. There are Cherrystone clams, not as large as chowder clams. You could say they're the second largest, and go great in a clam sauce. Then there Top Neck clams that are used mainly for clams casino and clams on the half shell. And, finally, Little Neck clams that can be used in a clam sauce as well as steamers. They are tiny and sweet.

Rossana says this is her personal recipe for clam sauce, and she invented it about a month ago while working on a "super tasty awesome tomato sauce." It's a "Dominican/Italian" recipe.

ROSANNA ROSSI'S RED CLAM SAUCE

2 dozen Cherrystone clams, or 4 pounds Little Neck clams, scrubbed clean and picked over
4 tablespoons olive oil
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 (28-ounce) can diced tomatoes
2 teaspoons oregano
1 teaspoon thyme
2 tablespoons vinegar (preferably herb-infused)
1 teaspoon rosemary
1 whole cinnamon stick

1. In a large frying pan or skillet, heat olive oil. Add garlic and saute quickly (do not let the garlic burn). Add tomatoes, oregano, thyme, vinegar, rosemary and cinnamon stick. Lower heat and simmer about an hour or so (Rossana says she cooks her sauce for 2 hours).
2. While the tomato sauce is cooking, place about 1-inch water in a large saucepan, add clams and steam them open. Place shell-less clams in a plate and set aside. Save the water left in the saucepan. If you desire, once clams have cooled you can chop them before adding to the sauce, or you can leave them as is.
3. When the sauce is just about done, add the clams and clam water. Simmer until the flavors are blended. The trick is not to overcook the clams; just reheat.
4. Serve over any long-type pasta such as linguini, spaghetti, perciatelli, or fettuccine.
Yield: 6 servings or more

Real Barbecued Chicken

2010-09-03T08:14:00.004-04:00

The Labor Day Holiday is upon us. So, before you put away the flip-flops and the old grill, here's one more outdoor recipe. And what could be anymore American than barbecued chicken? By that I mean real barbecued chicken. One that uses, for once, your own barbecued sauce, not that crap sold in supermarkets and which is chock full of chemicals and "enhancers." The thing is, barbecue sauce is very easy to make. When I ventured down South during my young manhood, everyone I met made their own sauce; and everyone had their own secret ingredient, whether it was a little bourbon whiskey put in to add a bit of dash, or some mesquite in the hot coals to give the meat some character.

The two sauces I give below use ingredients that can be easily found. No need to get fancy with some undefinable herb or spice. We keep it simple. The idea is to fix up the sauce, lather the chicken, grill quickly, and enjoy the farewell to summer with your mates and fellows.

BARBECUED CHICKEN

Sauce #1

1 tablespoon dry mustard
1 teaspoon ground cloves
1 teaspoon ground allspice
1/3 cup ketchup
2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
3 tablespoons brown sugar
2 tablespoons butter
Juice of 1/2 lemon

Sauce #2

1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger or 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
2 cloves garlic, finely minced
1 tablespoon dry mustard
1 tablespoon chili powder, or to taste
1/3 cup ketchup
2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
3 tablespoons brown sugar
2 tablespoons butter
Juice of 1/2 lemon

1. Take one broiler chicken, about 2 1/2 pounds, and split it into two halves. Pound the chicken on a cutting board or flat surface with a mallet or the bottom of a skillet. This will ensure that the chicken lies flat and cooks more evenly on the grill.
2. Rub the chicken with salt, pepper, and oregano to taste; then rub all over with about 1/3 cup olive oil and two tablespoons red wine vinegar. Set aside.
3. Combine all the sauce ingredients in a small pan, and stir over moderate heat until blended.
4. Place chicken halves, skin side up on a heated gas grill or over hot coals. Brush the sauce over the skin side of the chicken and grill, without turning about 10 minutes. Turn and brush the other side. Continue cooking and basting every 5 to 10 minutes until the chicken is thoroughly cooked. Cooking time will depend on how hot the grill is and how close it is to the heat source. For faster cooking you may want the grill top closed.
Note: the recipe can be doubled if you want to grill 2 chickens.

Mosques in America: A Perspective

2010-08-24T13:39:00.008-04:00

The uproar over the proposed mosque/cultural center on Ground Zero makes some of us, on both sides of the argument, uncomfortable. When that paragon of of marital fidelity, Newt Gingrich, equates Islam with Nazis, then the thing has gotten out of hand. The whole episode reflects a deep, personal and passionate argument. And what's lost in the argument is that the Islamic creed and American principles go back a long way, sometimes in tandem, and sometimes as opposites. This is not the first time the mosque issue has come up, and certainly it will not be the last. Whether one favors the building of the mosque/cultural center or not, one should understand the historical record. If nothing else, it gives us a guidepost as to understanding America's relation to Islam. And, though most of us may not know it, it's a long and storied history.

The earliest documented case of a Muslim coming to these shores is that of a Dutchman, Anthony Janszoon van Salee. He came to what was then New Amsterdam (later New York) in 1630; and was referred to by his compatriots as a "Turk." The first Muslim to enter the historical record is one Estevanico of Azamor, a Berber from North Africa who explored parts of the Midwest for the Spanish Empire. As far as we know, the first American public official to acknowledge the impact of Islam was John Adams who, in his treatise Thoughts on Government, praised the prophet Muhammad as a "sober inquirer after truth" alongside Confucius, Zoroaster, Socrates and other "pagan and Christian thinkers." Later on, in 1790, the South Carolina legislature granted special legal status to a community of Moroccans, 12 years after the Sultan of Morocco became the first foreign head of state to recognize the U.S. That's right, a Muslim nation was the first to recognize our existence.

Relations between Muslim nations and America were not always that rosy. In Marine Corps boot camp we recruits had to learn the Marine Corps anthem. The opening line is "From the halls of Montezuma to the Shores of Tripoli." The Tripoli part has to do with the U.S. war against the Barbary Pirates, a bunch of Muslim privateers who operated out of bases in North Africa; and, who from 1785 to 1815 demanded tribute from the U.S. in order for us to trade with the Orient, without having U.S. ships boarded and taken. Finally, the Americans had had enough and the marines were sent in to stop the extortion.

As for mosques in America? No less a notable than Benjamin Franklin, wrote in his autobiography (published in 1791) that he "did not disapprove" of a meeting place in Pennsylvania that was design to accommodate all religions. He stated that "even if the Mufti of Constantinople were to send a missionary to preach Mohammedanism to us, he would find a pulpit for his service." Muslims took him at his word and in 1907, immigrants from the Podliasie region of Poland founded the first Muslim organization in New York City, The American Mohammedan Society. But it wasn't until 1915 that the first American mosque was founded by Albanian Muslims in Biddeford, Maine. The nest big mosque, the Al-Sadig Mosque, was built in the Bronzeville neighborhood of Chicago in 1920. And in 1934, the first building specifically built to be a mosque was established in Cedar rapids, Iowa. By 1945 a mosque existed in Dearborn, Michigan, home to the largest Arab-American population in the U.S. The building of mosques increased in the 1920s and 30s, but it wasn't until the 1960s that construction really sped up. Statistics note that 87% of mosques founded in the U.S. were established within the last three decades. Today there are from 40,000 t0 50,000 mosques, and California has more mosques than any other state.

There are an estimated 2.5 million Muslims in the country. What is not know is that, historically, they tended to support the Republican Party. In the 2000 presidential election nearly 80% of Muslim-Americans supported George W. Bush over his Democratic opponent, Al Gore. Of course, within recent years, with all that's been going on, that support has sharply declined.

In the current on-going debate, I can understand both viewpoints. Religious freedom, whether you believe in religion or not, is one of our bed-rock principles. The right to attend a place of worship in enshrined in our psyche. The Constitution guarantees that right. Still, some argue, having a mosque so close to where 3,000 of our citizens were murdered (300 of whom were Muslim) is like pouring salt on the wound of those who lost friends and family on 9/11. The proponents of the mosque/cultural center should have been aware of that fact, however well intentioned. Nevertheless, because of the controversy, we are suffering a black eye in the Muslim world. Eventually, the controversy will subside, cooler heads will prevail, but, for the time being, the healing will take a long time in coming.

Grillin' Chicken

2010-08-13T14:58:00.003-04:00

We're not going to put away that grill anytime soon. The long hot summer continues. So does al fresco cooking. In that vein, let's grill some more. This time, chicken. Believe it or not, chicken is one of the most easiest things to cook on a grill. Problem is, most times, it's burnt chicken on the outside and, almost raw chicken on the inside. I discovered a long time ago, to get perfectly grill, cooked chicken, simply parboil the chicken pieces beforehand. Now, this may not be necessary if cooking chicken breasts, especially if they have been pounded into thin pieces. That being said, making chicken on a grill is a quick straightforward thing. It all depends on the herbs or sauce used in the cooking.

Below are three easy grilling recipes for poultry. Don't have access to a grill? You can do same by broiling chicken in the oven.

#1: GRILLED POULTRY

For this recipe you can use small chickens, Cornish game hens, or even quail. Rinse poultry under cold running water, and pat dry with paper towels. Split the poultry in half. In a bowl, combine 1/2 cup olive oil, 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar, 1 teaspoon dried oregano, 3 minced garlic cloves, and 1/4 teaspoon dried sage. Add poultry and marinate for about 30 minutes or more. Remove from marinade and grill the poultry pieces directly over medium coals or gas grill. Cook for about 20 minutes, turning and basting frequently with the marinade mixture.

#2: SIMPLE GRILLED CHICKEN

4 chicken breasts

1/3 cup olive oil

6 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 teaspoon oregano

1 teaspoon thyme

1 teaspoon rosemary

2 garlic cloves, peeled and minced

1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes (optional)

1. In a blender or food processor, combine all the ingredients except for the chicken breasts, and process until smooth.

2. Place chicken in a large bowl or, better still, in a resealable plastic bag ( I like the ones that have the zip lock). Pour marinade mixture over chicken and cover (if using bowl), or seal, if using bag. Place in the refrigerator and let marinate for 1-2 hours (you can even marinate overnight if you want a full, rich flavor).

3. Drain marinade and reserve. Grill chicken, turning and basting frequently with marinade for about 30-40 minutes or until desired tenderness.

#3 GINGER-HONEY GLAZE GRILL CHICKEN

1 2 1/2-to-3 pound chicken, quartered or cut into serving pieces

Olive oil, melted margarine or butter

1 teaspoon ground black pepper

2 teaspoons dried oregano

1/2 teaspoon finely shredded orange peel

1/2 cup orange juice

1/2 cup sliced scallions

2 tablespoons honey

1 tablespoon soy sauce

2 teaspoons corn starch

1 teaspoon grated ginger

1. Rinse chicken under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. Place chicken in a pot with water to cover, bring to a boil, and parboil for about 2 minutes.

2. Remove chicken and brush with oil, melted margarine or butter. Sprinkle with pepper and oregano. Set aside

3. To make Ginger-Honey Glaze: combine remaining ingredients in a small skillet or frying pan. Cook and stir over medium heat until bubbly. Cook, stirring all the time, about 2 minutes more.

4. Place chicken, skin side down in an uncovered grill directly over medium coals or gas grill, and cook for 20 minutes. Turn and grill for 15-20 minutes more or until desired tenderness, basting often with the Ginger-Honey Glaze.

Cold Noodle Salads for Summer

2010-08-02T12:35:00.003-04:00

We are still in the thick of it, kiddies. Me and my significant other were in cool, clear Vermont. But now we're back in the city, the Apple, or as it has been referred to as of late, the Baked Apple. It's been a hot, cruel summer. The only thing I look forward to is the free outdoor concerts in Central Park where you can have a good outdoor picnic while sipping a light wine. One of my favorite picnic dishes (and summer food) are cold noodle salads. They are easy to prepare, and delicious. Add some cold chicken, fruit, cheese, and good bottle of bubbly, and you're set.

Almost any kind of pasta can be used for a cold noodle salad. My favorites, however, are oriental noodles. By that, I mean Japanese udon noodles, buckwheat noodles (soba), or fresh Chinese egg noodles. Below are given two recipes. One using soba noodles, and the other, Chinese noodles. If you don't access to these, then any pasta noodles will do (linguini, angel hair, spaghetti, bucatini, perciatelli, etc.). The first recipe calls for hot sesame oil which can be found in any Asian or Oriental store.

#1: COLD NOODLES IN SESAME SAUCE

1 pound fresh, thin Chinese egg noodles
4 quarts water
2 tablespoons salt
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1/2 teaspoon hot sesame oil (if you really like your noodles very hot, then you can make it 1 teaspoon or more)
1 tablespoons regular sesame oil
1 tablespoon cider vinegar or white vinegar
1 teaspoon sugar
1 tablespoon peanut oil
1/2 cup toasted sesame seeds
6 scallions, cut into ringlets

1. Bring salted water to a boil, add noodles and cook for just 2 or 3 minutes. Drain and rinse under cold water.
2. Combine remaining ingredients and pour over noodles, tossing until well blended. Cool and chill, or serve at room temperature.
Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

#2: COLD JAPANESE NOODLES

1 pound Japanese noodles (udon or soba)
4 quarts water
2 tablespoons salt
2 tablespoons sesame oil
2 1/2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon rice wine vinegar or white vinegar
1/4 teaspoon crushed red peppers (pepe rosso)
6 scallions, cut into ringlets
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

1. Bring salted water to a boil and cook noodles about 4-5 minutes or until desired tenderness. Drain and rinse under cold running water.
2. In the same pot, heat together the sesame oil, soy sauce, vinegar, and red peppers. Add the noodles, and toss well until blended. Add the cilantro, cool and chill, or serve at room temperature.
Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

Grilled Steak with Peppercorns

2010-07-23T13:15:00.003-04:00

One of the most popular and easiest dishes to make is steak au poivre vert. That is, steak cooked with green peppercorns. It's a classic, and a favorite with firemen in firehouses because it is so easy to prepare, and still considered classically French. Well, the same deal can be done in the hot summer months on the old grill. And you don't need green peppercorns. If you don't have them, you can use regular black peppercorns which can be found in any grocery store. No need to be fancy with the meat, unless you want to. Almost any steak variety can be used, and not just the top quality stuff like rump, porterhouse or rib-eye. Usually, for this type of grilling the best is strip steak, boneless beef steak, beef tenderloin, top round or, if you want to spend a little more cash, sirloin. The steak should be anywhere between 1-inch to 1 1/2-inch thick.

With almost any food item, there are two ways to grill: direct heat and indirect heat. With direct grilling the meat is placed directly over the heat source. This is the basic and most preferred method. For indirect grilling, the heat source is off to the side of where the meat is cooked. For a gas grill this means turning on the burner on one side but cooking the meat on the other side of the grill. The same with a charcoal grill. Just have the heated coals on one side and cooked the meat on the other side. I am not partial to indirect grilling. I like the meat cooked and seared. Choose whatever way works best.

Grilled Peppercorn Steaks

4 steaks

3/4 cup whole black peppercorns

2 cloves garlic, peeled

1/2 teaspoon dried oregano

1/4 cup olive oil

1/4 cup butter

1/2 cup scallions, chopped (can use both green and white parts)

2 cups red wine

1/3 cup capers, drained

1. Put peppercorns, garlic, and oregano in a mortar. Pound until crushed. Add olive oil and mix thoroughly.

2. Coat both sides of steaks with peppercorn-olive oil mixture.

3. Grill steaks, covered with grill lid, about 5-6 minutes per side or until desired doneness.

4. Melt butter is a small skillet. Add scallions and saute 1-2 minutes. Add wine and capers, and cook until liquid is reduced by half (about 10-15 minutes). Pour over steaks and serve. Note that this part can be done in the kitchen ahead of time so you can have it ready by the grill.

Yield: 4 servings.

Thai Noodles

2010-07-16T09:52:00.004-04:00

My friend, Paul Goldstein, has become a maven in terms of Thai cooking. He's spent some time in Thailand, and its cuisine has really captured him. Which is great for me since I'm always in the market for some good recipes. And this is one of them. It's simply rice noodles in a sauce with chicken and broccoli added to it.

Noodles are ubiquitous in Thai cuisine. Some say there are over 300 varieties. The most commonly used are rice noodles, which come in three varieties: sen yai (wide flat noodles), sen lek (thin flat noodles), and sen mee or sen mi, which are thin and round and are called vermicelli in the West. There are also chicken noodles (gu-tiaw gai), and pork or beef noodles (gu-tiaw rua); as well as barni, noodles made from eggs and wheat floor and usually sold fresh. If you can get these fresh noodles, you are in heaven. Another dry variety are mung bean flour noodles called wunsen. They are very thin and are known to us as cellophane noodles.

The recipe, called Chicken Lard Nah, uses wide precooked rice noodles. They do have thinner pre-sliced, precooked rice noodles, but Paul prefers cutting the wide noodles to the size he wants. The dish calls for osyter sauce, but Paul admits he didn't get the sauce quite right so he experimented and came up with something else. In this case, sweet chili sauce, which Paul notes you can get at the local oriental grocery store for $1.89 or thereabouts. Chilies were introduced into Thailand by the Portuguese in the 16th century. And their cuisine has never been the same since. They love their chili.

The recipe is very easy and quick to make, quite tasty and healthy---except for the sweet chili sauce which has a high level of salt. But, as Pablo says, if you add it to the water in the pan, there's no problem .

PABLO'S CHICKEN AND BROCCOLI WITH RICE NOODLES

3 tablespoons peanut oil, olive oil, or vegetable oil
3 tablespoons water
1 pound boneless, skinless chicken breast halves, cut into 1/2-inch wide strips
1 head fresh broccoli, cut into florets
6 separated strips (1 1/2-inch) precooked rice noodles
Sweet chili sauce to taste
1 medium to large ripe tomato, cut in half and then sliced into quarters

1. In a cast-iron pan or wok, add the oil and water, and mix.
2. Add chicken strips and broccoli florets. Cook for about two minutes. Cover the chicken and vegetable with the rice noodles.
3. Cook for about 5-8 minutes, stirring constantly, making sure there's enough water to steam everything or else the noodles will stick. If necessary, add a little bit more water.
4. Add sweet chili sauce and mix well with the liquid remaining in the pan or wok.
5. Garnish with tomato.
Yield: 4 servings.

Salad Time!

2010-07-06T14:04:00.003-04:00

It's hot as Hades out there, kiddies. Cooking is the last thing on your mind. The idea of lighting up that stove---ug! Even the old barbecue grill starts looking unappetizing. Still, we need sustenance. That means, salad time!---that ole stand-by. And by that I mean using fresh summer greens (with some canned stuff when needed. It doesn't hurt).
Given below are given some quick and easy salad dishes. No cooking necessary. The recipes start from the simplest to a more substantial Salad Nicoise (which uses boiled eggs---and those you can get at the deli). Anyway, Here goes.

Basic Avocado Salad: Take one medium to large ripe avocado; peel, and cut into slices length-wise. Place on a serving plate, drizzle with olive oil and red-wine vinegar. Sprinkle with fresh or dried oregano, and a pinch of salt. That's it. Serve with bread.

Cucumber Salad: In a salad bowl, place 1 cucumber, peeled and sliced thinly. In another smaller bowl, combine 2 tablespoons sugar; 2 tablespoons olive oil; 1/4 teaspoon salt; and 1 tablespoon white or red wine vinegar. Pour over cucumbers and marinate 15-20 minutes. You can serve the cukes as is or, to liven it up more, you can stir in 1/2 cup sour cream and 2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives.

Broccoli Salad: In a large salad bowl, combine 2 pounds fresh broccoli, washed, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces; 2 cups (8 ounces) shredded mozzarella cheese; and 1 medium red onion, sliced thinly. In another smaller bowl combine 1 cup mayonnaise; 2 tablespoons sugar; and 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar. Add to salad and toss to coat.

Veggie Salad: In a bowl, mix one head cauliflower, broken into florets; 1 head lettuce, washed and dried thoroughly; one medium red onion, sliced thin; and one cup fresh or frozen peas. In another smaller bowl, combine 2 cups mayonnaise; 2 tablespoons sugar; 1/3 cup Parmesan cheese; 1/4 teaspoon salt; and 2 teaspoons white vinegar. Pour over salad and toss to coat. Cover and refrigerate for at least one hour before serving.

Green Salad: Rinse and drain well one head Bibb lettuce, 1 bunch fresh spinach, 1 bunch escarole lettuce, and 1 bunch endive. Tear into bite-sized pieces and toss in a large salad bowl. In a blender or food processor combine 1/2 cup olive oil; 1/4 cup red wine vinegar; 2 tablespoons sugar; 1 teaspoon dry mustard; 1 teaspoon celery seed; and 4 ounces blue cheese, crumbled. Pour over salad greens and toss gently. If desired, you can garnish with cooked and crumbled bacon (if you can stand the idea of cooking anything).

String Bean Salad: Marinate overnight in half a cup white vinegar: one pound fresh or frozen green beans, and 1 cup black olives, with salt and pepper to taste. Next day, combine 1 cup sour cream; 1/2 cup mayonnaise; 2 tablespoons chopped chives; 1 teaspoon lemon juice; 1/4 teaspoon dry mustard; and 1 teaspoon horseradish. Drain beans and olives from marinade, and toss lightly with the dressing ingredients.

Three Bean Salad: In a mixing bowl, combine 1 can (16 ounces) garbanzo beans (chick peas), drained; 1 can (l6 ounces) red kidney beans, drained; 1 can (16 ounces) white Cannellini beans, drained. Add 1/2 cup prepared Italian dressing; 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar; 1 teaspoon Italian seasoning; 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Mix together and refrigerate 30 minutes for the flavors to blend. Drain and serve.

Salad Nicoise

1-2 heads Romaine or Boston lettuce, washed and drained
1 medium green pepper (pimento), slice thinly
1 red onion, sliced thinly
1 cucumber, peeled and sliced
12 cherry tomatoes, halved
3 hard boiled eggs, quartered
12 big or jumbo pitted olives
2 cans tuna fish (in water), drained and broken into chunks
1 (2-ounce) can anchovy fillets, drained and chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely minced
1 teaspoon mustard (preferably dijon)
1/4 cup olive oil
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

1. Line a large salad bowl with the lettuce leaves.
2. Arrange the green pepper, onion, cucumber, cherry tomatoes, eggs, and olives, in groups on top of the lettuce. Put the tuna fish chunks in the middle.
3. In a small bowl, combine the anchovy fillets, garlic, mustard, olive oil and vinegar. Pour over the salad, cover and chill for 30 minutes.

There you have it. Some traditional, and not so traditional salad dishes. If nothing still gets you, then just make some ripe tomato sandwiches with mustard and mayo on sliced bread. My mom use to do this during the summers back in East Harlem, and we loved the suckers.

A Republic on the Edge

2010-06-25T13:40:00.003-04:00

The latest flap over President Obama's firing of General Stanley McChrystal has brought to mind the old argument of the inevitable clash between civilian leadership and the military. We have been fortunate among nations that our tradition of civilian oversight has never been challenged. This is how the Founding Fathers envisioned it, and this is how it has been. However, I believe that we are at a crossroads at this point in time, and the danger lurks of a considerable disconnect between civilian authority and military responsibility.

As one who has served this nation in time of conflict, and who would do it again willingly, I am concerned, as are others, of what has been referred to as this "cultural divide" between those who serve in our military, and those who have not. This nation has always cherished the ideal of the citizen-soldier. It began at our inception when a bunch of rag-tag farmers took on the British Empire at Lexington. It grew to its apotheosis when citizen-soldiers fought to both sides, North and South, during the crucible of the Civil War. It happened again in both World Wars when citizens fought under the same banner against the evil of Fascism. In the defining struggle of my generation, Vietnam, despite the protests and upheavals, it was still a citizen army that bore the brunt of the struggle. There was one cultural leveller, and that was the draft.

The draft is no longer with us, having been rescinded years ago. What we have now is an all-volunteer army. Unfortunately, this has only exacerbated the chasm between America's military and its civilian population. In reality, what we have today is an armed force, by and large, composed of poor whites, blacks and minorities led by a predominantly white officer corps. The sons and daughters of the elite, of legislators, of the upper brackets (with, of course, some exceptions) do not have to put themselves in harms way. Those who can't find work when the economy is good (let alone when we're in an awful depression) or who do not have the wherewithal to go to college, or can't get access to advancement and even good health care, they are the ones who sign up. And they serve selflessly, one long tour after another while the rest of us can't even fathom what they are going through. Thus the military has become an arm onto itself, aloof, apart and, yes, resentful of a leadership that has no idea of what it is to face fire. C.E. Montague once stated, "War hath no fury like the noncombatant." And it is the non-combatants, like a recent vice-president who claimed six deferments during the Vietnam war so as not to serve, who now make policy for those who must put their lives on the line.

This is not a good scenario. When a military becomes estranged from the nation is must protect, dissension and chaos will follow, as occurred with the early Roman Republic when a dysfunctional and ineffectual government succumbed to the legions who despised it. I'm not claiming this is our fate as of yet. But if this becomes a generational pattern with a growing separation between the political leaders and the military, it won't be long before that military losses respect for the politicos. And if there is no longer any respect for distant, elite rulers, then why should the soldiers obey them?

The last President we had who served in the military (and I'm not talking about George W. Bush's stint in the Air National Guard protecting us from the Gulf of Mexico) was Jimmy Carter, who had been a naval officer. Now, being a veteran is not a requirement for being a good Commander-in-Chief. Franklin Delano Roosevelt never served in uniform, yet he was a superb executive during World War II. But as was shown during the last Bush administration, having a cabinet of "furious non-combatants" is not necessarily a good thing. Those who have never seen battle may be too readily willing to commit us to questionable military endeavors. If the Congress at that time knew that their sons and daughters might have to serve in a dubious war, I doubt they would have been so willing in committing us to a uncertain adventure in Iraq.

My humble view (and this may trouble both my liberal and conservative friends) is that the draft should be reinstalled. Some European countries have a unique method of conscription. Everyone serves either in the military or a comparable national service for one year, with no deferments for anyone. One year, when you come out of high school is not going to ruin your life or prospects For those who like the military, they can stay in. For those who want to pursue a civilian career, they can pursue that as well. An equitable system for all. Also, and I say this with great pride, we are fortunate to be Americans; it's only fair we should give something back, and not have one percent of the population having to bear the brunt of protecting us. Because, my friends, I despair that the way we are going, someday in our future we just may have some Caesar who may want to "save" the nation. And that would be the worst of all outcomes.

Rama Rong Song Chicken

2010-06-21T12:27:00.005-04:00

Recently, my dear friend, Paul Goldstein, sent me an e-mail with regard to my posts on Chinese wok cooking. He, like I, is an avid fan of wok cuisine; and he also prefers using a cast-ironwok. Following this vein, he gave me a Thai recipe that can also be prepared in a wok. He stated it's one of the easiest Thai recipes to make. I tried it, and he's right. Quick and easy, and delicious.

Truthfully, I use a wok constantly for cooking these days, but I've never considered preparing a Thai recipe with it. But it does make sense. Both cuisines are Asian and full of flavor.

If you don't own a wok, Paul's recipe can also be done using a deep pan or pot. The recipe calls for using Satay peanut sauce, which you can get in any Asian store, or most supermarkets these days. So here it is: Pablo's Rama Rong Chicken (with peanut sauce and spinach over rice).

RAMA RONG SONG CHICKEN

1 to 1 1/2 cups water

2 tablespoons peanut or olive oil

1 pound boneless chicken breasts, cut into 1-inch strips

1 pound fresh or frozen spinach ( if using fresh, cut into bite-sized pieces)

4 cups ( or more) cooked rice

2 tablespoons Satay peanut sauce diluted in 1/4 cup water

1 small red bell pepper (pimento), cored and sliced thinly

1. In a wok, add the water and oil; and place a steamer rack inside. If you don't have a steamer rack, punch holes in an aluminum pie plate and place the pie plate atop a small can (about 5-6 ounces) inside the wok. The amount of water used will depend on height of can. Just make sure you have enough water to steam the chicken and spinach.

2. Bring water to a boil. Place chicken on plate, cover, and steam for about 5 minutes.

3. Add spinach and cook for about another 3-4 minutes (depending on whether spinach is fresh or frozen).

5. Fill a serving bowl with cooked rice, then top with chicken and spinach.

6. Pour Satay sauce over chicken and spinach, and arrange red pepper slices on top as a garnish.

Yield: 4 or more servings.

Nouveau Grilling

2010-06-15T12:57:00.004-04:00

Summer time an' the livin' is easy---which means that the grilling/barbecue season is here. But, you know what, kiddies---is it going to be the same old franks, burgers and half-burnt chicken? Now, not that there's anything wrong with franks, burgers and half-burnt chicken. But why not try something different and out-of-the ordinary, like grilling fish? You heard it right: fish, like in seafood. Fish is perfect for barbecuing and grilling. It's moist, delicious and easy to cook. Probably easier than grilling a steak.

Definitions are in order here. To my mind, grilling is just that: roasting meat outdoors over an open fire, grill, framework, or pit. Barbecue is when you add a highly seasoned sauce. So, wanna barbecue fish? Just add your favorite BBQ sauce. It'll probably be better for you than some contaminated, e-coli meat.

Below are given two simple but scrumptious (I love the word) fish dishes. Both are made with what in the Old World is known as "al salmoriglio"---with an oil and lemon sauce. Better tasting and healthier for you, believe me. Both recipes can be cooked on a charcoal grill, brazier, or gas grill. In each case, preheat the brazier or grill. If you don't have an backyard and a grill, you can also cook the fish in a broiler. In the first recipe given, you have to marinate the fish. This gives it a richer flavor. In the second recipe, marinating is not necessary, if you're in a hurry. Both recipes will yield about 4 servings.

PESCE AL SALMORIGLIO (Fish steaks with oil and lemon sauce)

Recipe I:

In a covered bowl or container, combine 1/2 cup fresh lemon juice, 1/4 cup olive oil, 2 minced garlic cloves, 1/2 cup fresh chopped basil, 1 tablespoon dried oregano, salt and pepper to taste. Mix well. Add to the marinade 2 pounds fish steaks (swordfish, salmon, cod, halibut, or tile fish) cut crosswise into 1/2-inch thick pieces. Refrigerate for 3 hours or, better yet, overnight. Turn fish several times in the marinade. Preheat grill; and brush grill with a little olive oil. When grill is quite hot, place fish steaks on grill and cook quickly over high heat. The fish should be close to the surface heat, and it should take about 2 minutes to cook on one side. Turn over quickly but carefully and cook about 2 minutes or slightly longer on the other side. Do not overcook or fish steaks will become too dry. Remove fish from grill and serve with lemon wedges, if desired.

Recipe II:

In a small bowl, combine 1/2 cup fresh lemon juice, 1/4 cup olive oil, 2 minced garlic cloves, 1 tablespoon dried oregano, salt and pepper to taste. (Note: in this recipe, the basil is optional.) Mix well and set aside. Preheat grill; and brush grill with a little olive oil. Grill fish as noted above in recipe I. Transfer to a warm platter and pour oil and lemon sauce over the fish.

There you have, friends. Now you can truly impress your neighbors and loved ones the next time you use the old grill.

Wok Cooking - Part II (Steaming)

2010-06-04T12:22:00.002-04:00

A wok is a perfect tool for steaming foods. The whole idea is to cook food rapidly using hot most air. This cloud of steam evenly cooks the food without need to boil it in water or broth. It's perfect for cooking seafood since it preserves the delicacy of the fish. In the process one uses as much water as in necessary to steam the dish and, if the water boils away during the steaming, more water can be added to the wok.

Any food can be cooked by steaming, be it meat, sliced or in big chunks, or vegetables, either frozen or fresh. If the food is frozen, it should be brought to room temperature otherwise condensation will result and the food will become too moist and watery. Slow steaming takes about 40 minutes to an hour. Quick steaming of cut or sliced food can take 5 to 15 minutes.

Most woks come with a steamer attachment: a small round, serrated metal stand on which you can place the food. If you don't have one, then you can make a homemade version by piercing holes in a metal pie plate. The wok is filled with 2-3 cups of water. A small can is placed into the water and the pierced pie plate rests on the can. The food is laid on the pie plate and the wok is covered with the lid after the steam starts rising. You start steaming the food when the water reaches a fast boil. When steaming delicate foods such as fish, timing is very important. Too long a time steaming will toughen the food. It's best to remove steamed foods a minute before they are completely cooked. That way the heat of the steamer will complete the cooking process and the food will come to table hot and perfect.

The recipe given is for steamed chicken. The chicken can be steamed as is, in water, and a sauce poured over it before serving. My recipe calls for the chicken in a marinade (makes it more flavorful that way).

BASIC STEAMED CHICKEN

12 ounce chicken (with bone and skin), cut into approximately 1-inch pieces

Marinade:

2 tablespoons light or dark soy sauce
1 teaspoon brown sugar
1 tablespoon cornstarch
1 teaspoon sesame oil

1. Rinse chicken pieces under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels.
2. In a bowl, mix marinade ingredients. Add chicken pieces and let marinate for 15 minutes at room temperature.
3. Arrange the pieces on a plate in a single layer and steam at medium-high for 10 minutes. Serve with boiled rice.
Yield: 4 servings.

Note: A bigger (2 1/2 to 3 pound) chicken can be use. In this case, increase soy sauce to 3/4 cup, and marinate with other ingredients as given. Place chicken pieces on a plate and arrange in a heaping shape with skin side on top. Steam for 10 minutes, remove lid from wok and, using tongs or a fork, rearrange chicken pieces so that skin pieces are on bottom and other pieces on top, and steam for another 10 minutes.

Wok Cooking - Part I

2010-05-31T12:06:00.003-04:00

The wok is one of the oldest cooking utensils known to humankind. The Chinese have used it for centuries. Here in the West it's gained prominence in the last generation, with more and more people applying it to their cuisine. The uses of a wok are almost limitless. It can be used as a steamer, or double broiler. It's also good for making sauces and soups, for stewing, sauteing, smoking foods, and even baking (like egg-cake baked in a wok). But it's most popular use is for stir-frying.

A wok is nothing more than a deeply-dished basin made of metal. Its components could be steel, aluminum, or cast-iron. These days they are even made of ceramic. I prefer the cast-iron version. Problem is, they are hard to find. You may have to go on the web or via a catalog place to get one. Once you acquire a wok, if it's made of metal, it has to be seasoned. This ensures the wok is in prime working order. The procedure is simple enough. First, wash the wok with hot water and soap to remove the special anti-rust coating. Rinse and dry with a clean towel or paper towels. Rub the inside surface with a thick film of peanut, corn, or soybean oil. Heat the wok over low heat for about 3 to 5 minutes until the oil steams. Turn off the heat and allow the wok to cool. Wipe away excess oil with paper towels, and your wok is now ready to use. After cooking, the wok should not be washed with soap or detergent. Just rinse it with hot water and, if need be, scrub it with a plastic (not metal) pad or you can purchase special bristle scrubbing brushes sold in Chinatown or most Asian stores. Wipe wok thoroughly dry and apply a light coat of vegetable oil to keep the wok from rusting.

As to using a wok in your kitchen, in the old days woks came with a round adapter ring. You put the wok on top of the ring to balance the round surface of the wok. This made woks work well with a gas range. It did not work that well with an electric one. Today there are woks made with a flat base so that you don't need the adapter ring. Also, the adapter ring has a tendency of leaving a burn mark on the surface of the range after constant use. That's why I prefer using a wok without the adapter ring.

Most woks come with a spatula (wok chan) and a long spoon (siu hok), for ease of cooking. It goes without saying, you'll also need a sharp knife or, better yet, a sharp heavy cleaver for cutting, slicing and chopping. A good chopping block is another necessity. These can be made of treated plastic or wood. There is an argument about this. Old timers still prefer the heavy wooden chopping block that can be found in stores in various sizes and shapes. Some claim the non-wooden chopping boards are best since they minimize the danger of bacteria build-up (even after cleaning with chlorine bleach). What type of cutting board or block you use? That's something you're going to have to decide for yourself.

Below is the easiest stir-fry recipe I know. Served over steamed rice, it makes a great vegetarian dish. But be aware that you can cook fish, meat, poultry, whatever, in a wok. Usually the ingredients are cut in such a way that all the pieces will be of uniform size; and the food which takes the longest time to cook will be put in the wok first. Another thing, most Chinese dishes call for soy sauce, of which there are two types: light and dark. Light soy sauce has more of the aroma of soybeans and is best used in soups, with white meat and cold dishes. Dark soy sauce has a stronger flavor and more sugar and is best in fried dishes and stews.

STIR-FRIED TOMATOES, ONIONS AND GREEN PEPPERS

3 tablespoons cornstarch
1/2 cup water
2 tablespoon soy sauce
3 tablespoons peanut oil
1 large onion cut into 1/8-inch thick slices
2 green peppers, diced into 1-inch squares
1 clove garlic, peeled and crushed
2 large tomatoes, each cut into eight wedges
1 teaspoon sesame oil

1. Blend the cornstarch in water.
2. Add soy sauce and mix. Have it ready beforehand. Chinese stir-frying goes very quick.
3. Preheat wok over high heat. Do not heat the oil in the wok before adding food, otherwise the food will stick to the wok.
4. Add peanut oil and heat over medium flame.
5. Add onion and stir-fry for 1 minute, stirring constantly.
6. Add peppers and garlic and continue cooking for 2 minutes.
7. Stir in tomatoes. Add the cornstarch-soy mix, and stir to to thicken (about 1-2 minutes).
8. Remove from heat, and add sesame oil. The function of sesame oil is to give the food a pleasant aroma. If it is included too soon, the aroma is lost. In general, it should be added before the food is served.
Yield: 4 servings
Note: If you want a more Asian flavor, add 1 teaspoon fresh grated ginger root to the vegetables while cooking; and garnish the finished dish with chopped scallions.

Mofongo

2010-05-24T13:14:00.005-04:00

Mofongo, just like Mondongo, is a word of African origin. And like Mondongo, I love the word. "Mofongo," pronounced just like it's spelled. Mondongo, as described in a prior post, is a hearty stew. Mofongo is simply a mix of crushed green plantains with fried pork crackling, usually served with a sauce. I know, fried pork gets a bad rap now and then but, from time to time, this is a superb dish. Once you've taste it, you'll be come back for more, I'm sure.

We Puerto Ricans adore mofongo. And we prepare it as individually shaped mofongo balls, similar to meatballs. Cuban mofongo differs from ours in that the mixture is shaped into one large ball which is served in a bowl. Modern variations have this type of mofongo stuffed with beef or seafood. Whatever method you prefer, it is a delicious appetizer, side dish or meal on its own. By the way, the recipe given is from my first cookbook, Puerto Rican Cuisine in America (Perseus Books Group).

Note that plantains these days are very easy to find. Almost every supermarket carries them. We even get them in our summer place in Vermont. They are a traditional root plant well known in the Caribbean, and are quite healthy for one. They are high in Vitamin A, potassium and fiber. They contain similar nutritional benefits as bananas. Can't go wrong there.

MOFONGO (Plantains and Pork Crackling)

5 green plantains
1/2 pound salt pork, washed and diced
3 cloves garlic, peeled
2 tablespoons olive oil
Vegetable oil for frying

1. Peel plantains and cut into diagonal slices about 1-inch thick
2. Place plantains and diced salt pork in a pot with water to cover. Let soak for 10 minutes.
3. Drain and wipe both plantains and salt pork with paper towels.
4. Place salt pork in a hot skillet or frying pan (no extra oil is necessary). Stir-fry over high heat until pieces are browned and crisp (about 5 minutes) and set aside. This is know as the chicharron or pork crackling.
5. Deep fry plantains in hot oil until golden. Drain well on paper towels.
6. Crush plantains and pork crackling together in a wooden bowl or mortar. This may have to be done in batches depending upon the size of the bowl or mortar. Set aside.
7. Crush garlic cloves, and blend in olive oil. This is best done in a mortar, if you have one, or any small bowl will do.
8. Add garlic-oil seasoning to the plantains and crackling, and mix thoroughly.
9. Scoop up a tablespoon of the mixture and shape into a ball (about 2-inches in diameter, or larger if desired). Repeat until mix is used up.
10. Serve by itself or with favorite sauce or gravy.
Yield: 12 or more mofongo balls.

The Hooker's Special - Pasta a la Puttanesca

2010-05-17T10:31:00.005-04:00

Yup, you read it right. Hooker's style pasta. And it's no too far off the mark. During the Italian campaign of World War II, when hordes of horny GIs reach Naples, the local working girls (and by that I mean the pros) found themselves swamped with customers. Now, it takes a lot of effort to keep the brothel running under such trying conditions. The ladies need sustenance that will provide enough energy to keep them going at full tilt. So, some enterprising individual came up with this recipe that could be prepared with a minimum of effort and provide a quick supper for the girls, in-between turning tricks, or servicing the servicemen, as it were.

American soldiers are no longer crawling all over Napoli, but the dish remained, and is now claimed by almost every Italian city where the ladies of the night ply their trade. And yes, the name has remained, Pasta a la Puttanesca, "Whore's Style Pasta."

PASTA A LA PUTTANESCA

3 tablespoons olive oil
1 large onion, slice into rings
3 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced
2 pounds plum tomatoes, chopped (can use good quality Italian canned tomatoes, if preferred)
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 can (2 oz.) anchovies packed in oil, chopped fine
1/2 cup pitted black olives, halved
1/4 cup capers, drained and rinsed
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
1 pound fusilli or rigatoni (or other large tube-shaped pasta)
1/4 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley
Freshly grated Romano, Pecorino or Parmesan cheese

1. Heat olive oil in a heavy saucepan (I prefer cast iron). Add onion and cook over medium heat until translucent. Add garlic and cook for a minute or two.
2. Add tomatoes. Stir in the tomato paste and cook for about 5 minutes.
3. Add the anchovies along with their oil. Stir in olives, capers, oregano, red pepper flakes, salt and pepper. Stir to mix and simmer over medium heat for about 10-15 minutes, stirring occasionally.
4. While sauce is cooking, bring a large pot of water to a boil and cook pasta according to package directions. Drain pasta and place in a serving bowl. Toss with remaining tablespoon of olive oil. Top with the Puttanesca sauce, sprinkle the parsley on top, and serve with the grated cheese.
Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

Fried Rice

2010-05-10T12:54:00.004-04:00

Nothing speaks to us more of what we consider "Chinese" cuisine than fried rice. Problem is, it ain't Chinese, it's an American invention. It's part of that overall catchphrase of what in known in the trade as "Chinese-American" cooking. Think of chop suey, egg foo young, chow mein, etc. They did not originate in China. The were invented in the good ole U.S.A (just like fortune cookies). And it all has to do with the Cantonese influence on American cooking.

Large scale immigration from Canton in southern China to the U.S. in the 1800s assured that this Americanization of Chinese cooking would take hold. The Chinese immigrants who flooded to California to work on the Pacific Railroad were constrained by the lack of authentic ingredients and vegetables that had represented their diet back home. They had to make do with what was available. Not only that, if they went into the restaurant business they had to make their dishes palatable to Western tastes. It's amusing to think that someone from the Chinese mainland would come to this country and go in search of genuine American chop suey, chow mein, or fried rice.

Fried rice is a very easy dish to make. All you need is rice. And there's an argument here. Some people swear that genuine fried rice should be done only with the sticky Chinese style of rice or something like Nishiki premium grade rice (I know, it's Japanese, but some consider it of better quality). I cook fried rice with the good old long grain variety such as Carolina brand or even Uncle Ben's. That's what my friend Eddie Hor, of late memory, always used. This is his recipe.

It should be noted that, in some fried rice recipes, the eggs are cooked along with the rice. Eddie would cook scrambled eggs separately and then add the eggs to the rice. Also, one can use light soy sauce or dark soy sauce if you want a darker color.

You can add other ingredients to this basic recipe, and make it vegetable fried rice, or shrimp
fried rice, or whatever (you can even cook it with Spam). Be creative, let your imagination reign.

BASIC FRIED RICE

4 tablespoons peanut oil or olive oil (I prefer the olive oil)
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
Ground black pepper to taste
4 cups cooked rice
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1-2 scallions, or as many as desired, washed and coarsely chopped

1. In a wok or frying pan, heat 2 tablespoons oil over medium-high heat and add the eggs. Cook, stirring, until they are lightly scrambled, seasoning with pepper. Remove the eggs to a dish and set aside.
2. Clean out the wok or pan with paper towels. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons oil and, when hot, add the rice. Stir fry for a few minutes over medium-high heat, using chopsticks or a wooden spoon to evenly cook the rice.
3. Stir in the soy sauce and scallions. When rice is heated through and has achieved desired color, spread the scrambled eggs over the top. Serve immediately.
Yield: 4 servings.

Food and Revolution

2010-05-04T12:29:00.006-04:00

"A shortage of bread has been suggested as the cause of the fall of
Rome, the French Revolution, and the Russian Revolution of 1917."
---The Story of Bread by Ronald Sheppard and Edward Newton

While doing research on my latest book, which covers the topics of food and war, I was really taken by how food, or the lack of it, can cause social distress. By that I mean, chaos and revolution. We fat Americans are really lucky. We've never had to face a nationwide shortage of food. Even during the Depression there were mechanisms to keep most of us fed. Charities and other social structures provided if, nothing else, soup kitchens and other food outlets. Sometimes I wonder what would happen if the discrepancy between the very rich and the very poor became such that millions of us died of starvation. I tell you what happen: mass revolt.

There is no more vivid example of this than the French Revolution. Many myriad causes are attributed to that upheaval but most prominent was the class differences in that society. Especially in terms of food consumption. It was the contradiction of great excess and terrible poverty. The monarchs and aristocrats feasted royally while the starving peasants, well, starved. When a catastrophic famine hit in the late 18th century, the price of bread rose up nearly 90 percent. The peasants depended on bread to sustain themselves, but there was none to be had; and food shortages in 1788-89 finally ignited the revolution.

The profligate lifestyle of the royals became glaring. While people died of hunger on Parisian streets, the excesses and arrogance of the royals, aristocrats and the clergy (yes, the Church was part of the problem) continued unabated.

In good times peasant food consisted mainly of bread and gruel (a pottage made of ground beans or soup with vegetables and perhaps a little meat thrown in). When famine hit, even this was no longer available. In contrast, the royalty had it better, much better. Below is a menu for a supper given for Marie Antoinette, the consort of King Louis XVI. Yeah, you could say she ate well. The menu comes from the imperial archives as quoted by L'Almanach des Gourmands pour 1862, by Charles Monselet. Here is her majesty's dinner:

Four soups: Rice soup, Scheiber soup, Croutons with lettuce, Croutons unis pour Madame

Two main Entrees: Rump of beef with cabbage, Loin of veal on the spit

Sixteen entrees: Spanish pates, Grilled mutton cutlets, Rabbit on the skewer, Fowl wings a la marechale, Turkey giblets in consomme, Larded breasts of mutton with chicory, Fried turkey a la ravigote, Sweetbreads en papillot, Calves' head sauce pointue, Chickens a la tartare, Spitted suckling pig, Caux fowl with consomme, Rouen duckling with orange, Fowl fillets en casserole with rice, Cold chicken, Chicken blanquette with cucumber

Four Hors D'Oeuvre: Fillet of rabbit, Breast of veal on the spit, Shin of veal in consomme, Cold turkey

Six dishes of Roasts: Chickens, Capon fried with eggs and breadcrumbs, Leveret, Young turkey, Partridges, Rabbit

Sixteen small entremets (menu stops here)

And all this for one person. Supposedly, when a group of starving women marched on the palace at Versailles, demanding bread, Marie Antoinette's response was that if they didn't have bread, "Let them eat cake." Whether she ever said such a thing is open to question. It did seal her fate , and that of the king. At the height of the revolution, in 1793 they were both sent to the guillotine and had their heads chopped off.

Moral of the story: Beware. Piss off the people, take away their food and their sustenance, and you reap the whirlwind.

Mondongo

2010-04-26T14:11:00.003-04:00

"MON-DON-GO." If rolls off the tongue. It sounds African, just like its origin. Some claim the term may have been coined by the Carib Indians of the Antilles. But most likely it was labeled by the black slaves imported to Puerto Rico during the Spanish colonization. It is a unique dish in our culture since it incorporates tripe in the recipe. And what you get is a deliciously thick stew that invigorates body and soul. Now, tripe is in the category of such unconventional foods (to some) as sweetbreads, calf's brains and octopus. Not only that, in Mondongo, the tripe is teamed up with another not so sophisticated comestible: calf's feet. The first response is "Yuck!" But, given a chance, you'll come back for more, believe me.

To Puerto Ricans, Mondongo, is ubiquitous. Especially on Sundays mornings when all those wasted partygoers line up for orders of Modongo in San Juan and Spanish Harlem. My relatives claim it's the best thing for a hangover the day after. I recall that on the island, in the city of Ponce, there are two or three hole-in-the-wall joints whose claim to fame comes from the fact they make Mondongo not with calf's feet but with pig's feet. Legions of aficionados seek out this special platter---and at a buck-fifty the price is just right.

If you're not familiar with tripe, today it can be found in most supermarkets. It looks like a white sheet patterned with honeycombs. First you trim the excess cartilage, and follow the recipe below as given. As to calf's feet, it normally comes packaged in pieces so you don't have to bother cutting it up. The dish also includes yautia (tanier or dasheen) and name (pronounced nyah-meh). Both are roots plants (collective called bianda) and found in Caribbean stores or markets.

The recipe comes from my first cookbooks, Puerto Rican Cuisine in America (Thunder's Mouth Press). An added note: some cooks add macaroni to the dish. In my family we do not, we keep it traditional. Still, if the yen is there, a half pound of macaroni can be added to the stew during the last 15 minutes of cooking.

MONDONGO

3 pound beef tripe, trimmed
1 pound calf's feet, cut up in serving pieces
4 lemons or limes
1/2 pound pumpkin, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
1/2 pound yautia, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
1/2 pound name, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
2 medium yams, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
1 packet Sazon Goya (Coriander & Annatto)
1/2 cup tomato sauce
1 teaspoon salt

1. Rinse tripe and calf's feet under cold running water. Pat dry with paper towels and set aside calf's feet.
2. Rub tripe with lemons and place in a large kettle or pot. Squeeze juice of lemons over tripe and add water to cover by about 2 inches. Cook in boiling water over moderate-high heat for 15 minutes.
3. Drain water and remove tripe. Rinse again under cold running water and place tripe on a cutting board. Cut tripe into 1 1/2 x 1/2-inch strips.
4. Return tripe and calf's feet to kettle and add fresh water to cover. Bring to a boil, lower heat and simmer, covered, until tripe is tender (1 1/2 to 2 hours).
5. Add pumpkin, yautia, name, yams, Sazon Goya, tomato sauce and salt. Cover and continue simmering at a low boil until vegetables are tender (about 1/2 hour). If a thicker stew is preferred, simmer, uncovered, during the last 10 minutes of cooking.
Yield: 8 servings.

The Tea Party - The Real Story

2010-04-19T11:44:00.004-04:00

Town hall meetings where elected officials are shouted down. Pro-gun rallies in the nation's capital on the same day that Americans are mourning the Oklahoma City bombing. People carrying signs depicting out first black president as a pigmy with a bone in his nose. Demagogues exhorting the populace. And all attributed to this so-called tea party movement. As I understand it, these people fear the government. They want it to get out of the way. The government that governs least governs best. An enticing principle. These folks model themselves on the original tea party organizers that preceded the American Revolution. Well, let's have a historical look at the original tea party people. As Paul Harvey use to say in his radio show: "And now, for the rest of the story."

The famous Boston Tea Party was an outgrowth of the budding tensions between the original colonists in North American and the British Crown. Prior to the Revolution, during the French and Indian War, the British had spent a lot of money defending the thirteen colonies. By war's end the British were 140 million pounds in the hole, an astronomical sum for those days; and they still had 10,000 troops in North America. Conversely, the colonists felt that, with the French threat neutralized, they didn't need protection. Also they wanted to expand westward into Indian territory. The British had issued a proclamation to protect the Native Americans from further encroachment by the colonists. But what really riled the colonists was the fact that the British had decided to impose a series of taxes in order to cover the expense of the British troops stationed in America.

Among the new taxes imposed by the British was a tax levied on all rum produced or manufactured in the Colonies (the Molasses Act 1733). Note that rum was the life-line of the colonies. New England and the middle colonies depended on the rum trade for their survival. There was the Sugar Act (1764), which was a modified version of the Molasses Act, and increased enforcement of existing taxes; the Stamp Act (1765)which imposed a tax on documents; and the Townsend Act (1767) which taxed imports.

The final straw was the Tea Act of 1773, designed to save the floundering East India Company of Britain, by shipping tea directly to the colonies, and sold at bargain rate prices. Problem was, the direct sale of tea was by British agents only, undercutting the business of local merchants, who stood to lose a good deal of cash. Colonists in Philadelphia and New York turned the ships back to Britain. In Charleston the tea was left to rot in the harbor. In Boston the royal governor was a stubborn one and he held the ships in port. No one was allowed to unload the tea. Cargoes of tea filled the harbor and British crews were grounded in Boston, looking for work and finding trouble. So, a bunch of colonists, dressed as Indians, boarded the ships and dumped the tea in the harbor. The Revolution was about to begin.

What should be noted today is that, compared to other industrialized countries, we are among the least taxed. There is no Sugar Act, or Stamp Act, or Townsend Act; and more, tellingly, there is no Quartering Act where we have to house and feed government troops in our homes. Yes, we do pay taxes, but as Justice Oliver Wendel Holmes declared, Taxes are the price we pay for civilization. Believe me, I hate paying taxes, but it's nothing like America in 1773. People who make a parallel between now and the original tea partyers should look up their history.

Spices and Herbs

2010-04-14T11:11:00.005-04:00

Spices and herbs. Without them dining, and eating in general, would be a dull affair indeed. Spices and herbs are what make food palatable, luxurious, even exotic. The men and women of the late Middle Ages experienced this at first hand. Since the fall of the Roman Empire they had been bereft of spices and herbs. It was the Muslim East that contained all the great spice stores. Medieval man lived on foods that had been preserved by salting or drying. That's it. One of the main reasons Christopher Columbus sailed for the New World was in order to find a direct route to what were called "The Indies," or the Spice Islands south of Indonesia. Any country who controlled the spice trade at the time controlled the world. In the contract charter for Columbus' voyage, it was agreed he would get ten percent of any profits from gems, gold, silver or spices that he found. Spices were listed alongside gold and silver. That's how important they were. Spices were used as a measure of currency. They were used to pay mortgages and fines, to buy property and to pay taxes,.

Today spices can be found at your local market in any variety. But some of us are still stuck in the salt and pepper rut. We may even add oregano to a dish once in a while. But ever consider using balm, a perennial garden herb with a sharp lemon scent? Or mincemeat spice (a mix of cloves, allspice and cinnamon used to flavor cakes, cookies and sauces)? There's more to spices than you think. Below is a listing of common and not so common herbs and spices and their uses.

Allspice - The dried berry of pimento trees found in the West Indies. Used as a condiment. The name is due to a flavor that resembles a mix of nutmeg, cinnamon and cloves.
Anise - The fruit of a small annual plant which dries into the form of a seed. Best varieties are grown in Spain, Mexico and India; and used in breads, cakes and cookies and as a flavoring for medicine and licorice products.
Basil - An annual plant whose leaves are dried, ground and powdered. Cultivated in Western Europe and used to flavor stews, sausages, soups and sauces. It combines well with tomatoes.
Bay Leaf - The aromatic leaf of the sweet-bay or laurel tree. Dried whole and used to flavor soups, meats and pickles.
Capers - The flower buds of Capparis spinosa grown in Mediterranean countries. Pickled and used as a condiment.
Caraway - A biennial herb with an aromatic fruit known as caraway seeds. Marketed whole or ground and used in breads, cookies, cakes, candies, salads and cheese.
Cardamon - The aromatic fruit of zinziberaceous plants grown in Ceylon, India and Central America. Sold in a whole pod, as whole seeds, or ground seeds, and used as a condiment.
Cayenne pepper - Powdered pod and seeds of various capsicum peppers that yields a hot, savory flavor. Used in meat and gravies, and grown mainly in Africa. In it one of the chief ingredients in Tabasco sauce
Celery Seed - Seed of a small plant similar in appearance and taste to celery. Used whole or ground to flavor soups, stews, cheese, pickles and salads.
Celery salt - A mixture of ground celery seed and fine white salt. Used in meats and salads.
Chervil - A plant with aromatic leaves used to flavor soups and salads.
Chili Powder - A mixture of ground red peppers, cuminseed and other spices. Used as a base for chili sauce and other spicy dishes.
Chives - Similar to green onions (scallions) though smaller and milder.
Chutney - A spicy pickle of compound fruit and seasonings.
Cinnamon - The inner bark of Cinnamon zeylancium (the best grows in Ceylon). It has a very mild flavor though Cassia cinnamon grown in the Far East has a more full-bodied flavor. Sold in sticks or ground.
Cloves - Sold whole or ground. The flavor buds of a tree grown in parts of the Caribbean, Zanzibar an Madagascar.
Coriander - An herb with aromatic seeds. Used for cookies, pickles and meat products.
Cuminseed. Dried fruit of Cuminum cyninum. Used for favoring meats, sausages and pickles, and as an ingredient in curry powder.
Dill - An annual herb grown for its aromatic seed. Used in pickles and sauces, and grown mainly in India. It goes great with scrambled eggs.
Fennel - Seeds of a ground herb used to flavor sauces and apple pie. It has a fragrance and taste similar to anise. Its young stalks are also used as a salad green.
Ginger - The root of a herbaceous perennial grown in semi-tropical countries. It also produces white ginger which is the scraped and peeled rootstock of the plant, often candied.
Leeks - Strong flavored plant similar to onion.
Mace - The stuff around the nutmeg kernel. The aroma is similar to nutmeg but has a different flavor. Sold whole as "blades" or ground and used to flavor sauces, gravies and cakes.
Marjoram - A fragrant annual of the mint family whose leaves are dried or used fresh or powdered to flavor soups, salads, meats and stuffings. It is grown in Northern Africa and Chile though the best grade comes from France.
Mint - A fragrant plant whose leaves are used, fresh or dried, to flavor soups, vegetables, fruits and beverages (think of a Mint Julip).
Mustard - A plant whose seeds are used either whole or ground. Its usually combined with spices and vinegar to make prepared mustard (the type you buy in the supermarket).
Nutmeg - The fruit kernel of the Myristica tree grown in the Caribbean. The whole fruit resembles an apricot in shape and size. The outer husk is the mace (see above), and the seed is the nutmeg. Sold whole or ground.
Paprika - A sweet red pepper which is dried and ground after seeds and stems are removed. Its mild flavor goes good with shellfish, fish and salad dressings. The best brands come from Hungary and Spain.
Parsley - A biennial herb used to flavor meats, vegetables and salads. It is also frequently used as a garnish.
Pepper - The king of spices. In olden days pepper was used a tonic, a stimulant, and even as an insect repellent and an aphrodisiac. It's made from peppercorns which are the dried berry of a vine, Piper Nigrum. Black pepper is made from the whole berry. White pepper is made from what is left of the fully ripened berry after the outer coat had been removed.
Pimento - The fleshy fruit of the Spanish paprika. In the Caribbean, pimento is used to describe large green peppers. The Spanish pimento is often canned or stored in jars and used in vegetable dishes and salads.
Poppy Seed - Seed of one variety of the poppy plant (but not the opium poppy---so don't get any ideas). Used for breads, rolls, cakes and cookies. Oil is also extracted from the poppy seed and used in salads or frying. Mostly imported from Central Europe.
Rosemary - An evergreen plant whose flowers and leaves are used to flavor and garnish fish, stews and sauces.
Saffron - The most expensive of them all. The residue of a flower similar to a crocus, gives a rich-orange yellow hue that is used to flavor foods and meats and to give color.
Sage - A perennial of the mint family. The leaves are dried and used in stuffings and meats.
Savory or Summer Savory - Annual of the mint family. May be used fresh or dried in sauces, stews, stuffings and croquettes. It is a major ingredient used in prepared poultry seasonings.
Scallions - Small green onions
Sesame - An herb whose seeds are used to flavor rolls and cookies. After baking the flavor resembles toasted almonds.
Tarragon - A perennial herb. Its leaves, either fresh or dried, are used to flavor salads, pickles and vinegar.
Thyme - The leaves of an herb, either powered or dried, which is used to flavor meat, poultry and clams.

Reblog this post [with Zemanta]">

Spuds - The Humble Potato

2010-04-08T12:12:00.005-04:00

Fact is, the humble potato has an inordinately important influence on human history. It was Francisco Pizarro and his Conquistadors who came upon it in the mountains of Peru, where the tuber had been cultivated for some 7,000 years . By 1570 it had made its way across the Atlantic to Spain, and from there to the rest of Europe. The Spaniards used the potato for their ships' stores since it was hardy, easy to store and had great nutritional value. The slave workers in the silver mines of the New World subsisted almost entirely on the product.

By the 1780s potatoes were prominent everywhere in Europe, and especially in Ireland, where it became the definitive crop. This was to have a severe and lasting effect on the Irish when in the mid-1800s a crop failure brought about the Great Potato Famine which would cut the population in half through starvation and immigration, mainly to America.

The potato was introduced to North America when English colonists took it back across the Atlantic to Virginia. Today, the potato is a common staple in the western diet. Still, for most of us, it's usage is fairly simply: mainly as french fries or topped with butter and sour cream. What we forget is how versatile this tuber really is. Below are some quick and easy ways to prepare the humble potato other than grandma's mashed potato salad.

Au Gratin Stuffed Potatoes: Wash, scrub and dry 6 potatoes. With an apple corer remove a cylinder from the center of each potato, and fill each cavity with 1/2 pound of your favorite cheese. Seal ends with tiny pieces of cylinders which have been removed, and bake at 350 degrees until tender (45-50 minutes).
American Kedgeree: Brown 1 chopped onion in olive oil. Add powdered curry to taste, salt, pepper, and 1 teaspoon lemon juice. Cook for 5 minutes. Add 2 cups diced cooked potatoes, 2 cups cooked kidney beans and whites of 2 hard-cooked eggs. Cook until heated through; and cover with grated or sieved egg yolks. Top with 1 cup sour cream and 1 tablespoons minced pimento, and serve.
Cream of Potato and Leek Soup: Cook 3 peeled and diced potatoes along with 2 diced leeks, for about 20 minutes. Place in a food processor or blender. Add 1 cup chicken bouillon, 1/2 tablespoon butter, salt and white pepper to taste, and 1 1/2 cups light cream. Reheat and serve garnished with chives or paprika
Potato Dumplings: Mix 1 cup mashed potatoes, 1 cup flour, 4 teaspoons baking powder, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 tablespoons butter, and 1/2 cup milk. Roll out into 1/2-inch thickness. Cut dough with as biscuit cutter or form dough into 2-inch dumplings. Place in a greased steamer over boiling water. Cover closely and steam for 12 minutes. Makes about 12 dumplings.
Lyonnaise Potatoes: Saute 1 minced onion in olive oil. Add 2 cups diced boiled potatoes (they should be slightly underdone for best results). Add potatoes to onions, plus salt and pepper to taste. Cook until the potatoes are brown, being careful not to break. Transfer to a serving dish, sprinkle with chopped fresh parsley, and serve.
Sweet Potato Croquettes: Combine 2 cups cooked mashed yams, 1 beaten egg, 2 tablespoons butter, 1/2 teaspoon paprika, 1/4 teaspoon salt, 1 tablespoon minced parsley, and 1/2 of a grated small onion. Mix well and form into croquettes. Roll in 1 beaten egg combined with 3 tablespoons milk. Then roll again in bread crumbs. Fry in hot deep vegetable oil until golden brown. Makes about 8 croquettes.
Salmon Cakes: Combine 6 cooked chopped potatoes, 2 cups canned flaked salmon, and 1 chopped green pepper. Shape into small cakes and cook in vegetable or olive oil until brown.
Serve with tarter sauce and parsley.
Potato Canapes: Spread strips of dried beef with mustard, place a spoonful of mashed potatoes at one end, and broil. Fasten with a toothpick and broil. Serve as hot appetizers.
Puffy Potato Omelet: Combine 3 eggs and 1 cup mashed potatoes until there are no lumps. Add 1 small chopped onion, 1 teaspoon minced parsley, salt and pepper to taste, and 3 tablespoons cream or milk. Transfer to a greased frying pan or baking dish and bake in moderately slow oven (325 degrees) until brown. Turn and fold onto a platter, and serve.
Marinated Potato Salad: Mixed 4 cups diced cooked potatoes with 1 minced onion, salt to taste and 1/2 teaspoon paprika. Marinate in French dressing for 1 hour. Chill. When ready to serve add 3 diced hard-cooked eggs, 2 tablespoons minced parsley and enough mayonnaise to moisten. Serve on crisp lettuce, and garnish with tomato wedges and gherkins.

Cooking With Wine - Part III

2010-04-05T14:14:00.006-04:00

One of the most fool-proof methods of cooking wine is poaching. That is, simply simmering the food with wine as the liquid. You can poach vegetables, meat or fish. They are all good, but poaching goes great with fruit. It can render a marvelous dessert dish, as noted in the recipe below. Just simmer any substantial fruit (apples, peaches, plums, etc.) in a sweet wine. The wine can be can be a sweet sherry, Marsala, port or other. I've chosen pears, and Sauternes, a dessert wine from Bordeaux.

PEARS POACHED IN SWEET WINE

1 cup Sauternes
1 cup water
1 cup brown sugar
Rind and juice of 1 lemon
4 pears, peeled and cored
1 cup whipping cream
1 tablespoon pear brandy (optional)

1. In a medium pan, combine wine, water and sugar.
2. Add rind and juice of lemon . Simmer over low heat for 5 minutes.
3. Add pears into the syrup. This must be done immediately after the pears have been peeled and cored. Simmer pears for 10-15 minutes depending on ripeness.
4. Remove pears to a serving platter. Boil syrup over high heat until half has been boiled away.
Pour remaining syrup over pears.
5. Serve chilled with whipped cream flavored with pear brandy if desired.
Yield: 4 servings.

Easter Lamb

2010-03-29T10:56:00.013-04:00

Back when I was growing up on the block, Easter dinner was usually celebrated with pernil, or roasted pork shoulder. In some case it was ham, normally of the Smithfield variety with a honey or syrupy glaze. But in my family Easter dinner meant lamb, in a glorious roast and seasoned to perfection. As I reflected on it, it made sense. After all, Christ the Lord was a shepherd so what better way to celebrate his resurrection than with a good lamb dish.

The family ritual meant watching the Easter Parade, so-called, on the tube, having a few beers and some shots of rum in between, and then the great dinner. In those days the parade was hosted by a local newsman named John Tillman, on channel eleven. It was so long ago sometimes I wonder what ever happened to Mr. Tillman. As for the event, people would dress up in their best finery. It wasn't till years later that I discovered that the "Easter Parade" wasn't anything like a parade, but just a bunch of folks dressed up like popinjays strolling up and down fifth avenue. Today, I'm told, the devotees can really crop up in outlandish costumes. To each his own.

Anyway, here's the lamb dish, still as good now as it was then. I'll be serving it again this Easter Sunday. In my crowd we eschew the mint or fruit glazes common to lamb dishes. We prefer the simple roast flavored with herbs and spices, with potatoes or root plants (bianda) baked alongside. For those who worry about the fat content, you can roast the lamb on a rack with baking pan underneath. Whether you do it that way or in the traditional manner, drain excess fat after roasting. And a good Australian Shiraz, Argentine Malbec, or California Pinot Noir goes great with the dish. Oh, yes, the recipe comes from my first cookbook, Puerto Rican Cuisine in America (Thunder's Mouth Press).

PATA DE CORNERO AL HORNO
(ROAST LEG OF LAMB)

1 leg of lamb, about 5 pounds
3 cloves garlic, peeled and cut into slivers
10 whole black peppercorns
1 tablespoon dried oregano
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon powdered thyme
1/4 teaspoon dried marjoram
2 tablespoons olive oil
4 large potatoes, peeled and quartered

1. Preheat oven to 325 degrees.
2. Rinse lamb under cold running water and pat dry with paper towel.
3. With a sharp knife make several slits in the lamb. Stud the slits with garlic slivers.
4. Place peppercorns, oregano, salt, thyme and marjoram in a mortar and pound until crushed. Blend in olive oil.
5. Rub seasoning over entire leg of lamb.
6. Arrange lamb in a shallow baking pan, fat side up, and bake for 1 hour, basting occasionally. Arrange potatoes around lamb, and continue baking 1 1/2 to 2 hours depending on desired doneness.
Yield: 6 or more servings.

Ministry of Fear

2010-03-26T11:48:00.003-04:00

Like most everyone else I spent the week catching up on the reform health care debate, and its passage. It's now law. A majority of Americans will have health care, however imperfect. But what intrigued me was the outpouring of outright vehemence from certain groups as to its passage. By that I mean, predominantly, the tea party movement. The differences in tone stuck me. There's President Obama at a rally in Iowa with an audience of young and old, people of every class and station and they exuded unbounded optimism. Then I would watch the other side, on the same cable programs, and what came at me were middle age white men and women spouting sheer hatred and venom. No optimistic sunniness for these guys. The contrast was startling.

I spoke to my wife about this, trying to understand the depth of animus in this group. She put it succinctly: These people are afraid that they are losing their nation. This fear is palpable because given current demographic trends, their worse imaginings will come to pass. They will no longer be majority in their own land. They conceive of it as the mongrelization of America. They are losing control to the Other: the ethnics, the blacks, the Asians, Hispanics, etc. As a white Anglo-Saxon, my wife can understand this fear. She put it to me this way: suppose I lived in Puerto Rico and discovered that in a short while Puerto Ricans would be a minority in their own land. Or a Frenchman finding out that he is a minority in France; or a German coming to the realization that he will be outnumbered in Germany. This one constant terrifies the tea partyers. Forget about health care, or government takeover, or federal intrusion in your life, or increase taxation---that's the screen they use. The real fear is racial. And the election of black man as president exemplifies this fear as never before. This, to me, became vividly stark when I saw an old white biddy with a sign proclaiming: "Impeach the Kenyan." It is scary, mainly because they feel the tide is going against them, these protesters. They hunger for the mythical past of the 1950s and Ozzie and Harriet and Leave it to Beaver where June Clever, the mother, would vacuum the rug in high heels and pearls, and Ward Cleaver, the father, would never take off his suit jacket, even at home.

The ironies abound. The same people who fear government intrusion into our lives will use government power to deny homosexuals and lesbians their right to wed. The same people who quote God at every turn will deny a woman her right to consul her own deity, and her own doctor, with regard to reproductive rights. The same people who claim to espouse freedom of speech would deny that same freedom to others. Now, I'm not claiming that all who belong to the tea party movement are out-and-out racists, that would be idiotic. There are those, I'm sure, who simply object to the current path solely on philosophical grounds. Genuine conservative thought and precepts have had a long and honored tradition in our nation. But, when one radical fringe group takes over one of our major parties with a platform based on hate and racial prejudice, that is worrisome. And the Republicans should take note. Such movements have a tendency of devouring their own---as witness John McCain who, a short while ago, was the darling and presidential candidate of the party, and who today is fighting for his political life because the tea partyers don't consider him conservative enough or "pure" enough for their taste. Gives credence to the old maxim: Beware of what you wish for.

The sad fact is that this has all happened before. It occurred in the 1850s when the Know Nothing Party fulminated against the "scummy" Irish who were invading our shores and who would turn the nation into a papist outpost and undermine our true Protestant ethic. It reared its ugly head again in the 1900s nativist movement against those "greasy" Italians and "dumb-ass" poles who were polluting out national heritage. You saw in the 1920s when, at its height, the Ku Klux Klan had millions parade on Washington D.C. decrying the growing influence of "uppity" Negroes and "vile" Jews who would besmirch our nation's honor. It happened in the 1950s when the John Birch Society railed against the Communists and suspected Communists who were organizing labor unions in order to, ostensibly, overthrow the government. Each nutty movement came and went. And we survived.

My friends, we will survive this two. We've survived worse. We did it over 200 years ago when 13 diverse colonies took on the greatest empire on earth. And against all odds, when they were counted out, they persevered and installed this Republic. Eight decades later the fledgling Republic was engulfed in a horrendous civil war, and it survived, emerging stronger and more united. It took on the threat of Fascism and Communism, and vanquished both, relegating such unnatural ideologies to the ash heap of history. So, yes, we will overcome the reactionaries within tea party movement and its ilk. The challenge now is to hang on until the glorious sunrise.

Reblog this post [with Zemanta]">

Brisket For Passover

2010-03-22T11:22:00.006-04:00

In my young manhood I was introduced to the ritual of Passover by some Jewish friends. They invited me over for a traditional Passover Seder, and I was fascinated by the whole concept. Passover, I discovered, commemorates the ancient Hebrews' deliverance from slavery in Egypt. It begins on the 15th day of the month of Nisan as reckoned by the Hebrew Bible. Nisan is the first month of the Hebrew calendar and is comparable to March and April in the Christian calendar.

According to the Book of Exodus, when the ancient Hebrews left Egypt, they were in such a hurry to get out that they had no time to wait for the bread they had prepared for the day's meal to rise so it could be baked. In remembrance of this occasion no unleavened bread is eaten during the course of Passover. It is a seven day holiday of the Feast of Unleavened bread. So Matza, a flat unleavened bread has become the symbol of the holiday. The word "Passover" comes from pasach whose meaning is assumed to be "He passed over," referring to God "passing over" the homes of the Hebrews during that time in which ten plagues struck Egypt, forcing Pharaoh to release the Hebrews from bondage.

Passover is celebrated on the first night with the Seder, a special dinner. In communities outside of Israel it is celebrated during the first two nights. During the meal, a special Seder Platter is set and the story of the Exodus from Egypt is retold with participants quoting from a revered text called the Haggadah. And, yes, four cups of wine are consumed while retelling the narrative.

There are traditional Passover dishes like gefilte fish, matzo ball soup, roast chicken, and lamb which is a particularly popular dish for Passover. My Ashkenazic friends always served a roast brisket for the holiday. Ashkenazic Jews are those descended from Western and Eastern Europe. As opposed to Sephardic Jews whose lineage hails from the Mediterranean, especially Spain, Portugal and North Africa. It should be noted that Passover is also celebrated by the Samaritans, a group whose religion is closely related to Judaism and who trace their history to the ancient Israelites (one can recall in the Gospels Jesus' account of the Good Samaritan).

Brisket of beef is a cut of meat from the breast or lower chest of cattle, and it can be cooked in many ways inclusive of braising, barbecue, grilling, smoking and roasting. Check out the recipe below. You won't be disappointed; and you don't have to be Jewish to enjoy it.

PASSOVER BRISKET

1 brisket of beef, 4 to 5 pounds, trimmed of excess fat
1/2 cup olive oil
1/2 cup potato starch (or more as needed)
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
1 tablespoons garlic powder
1 tablespoon dried oregano
3 medium tomatoes, sliced in rounds
2 medium onions, sliced in rounds
1 green bell pepper (pimento), sliced in rounds
1/2 cup water

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
2. Heat olive oil in a large roasting pan. Add brisket and brown on all sides over medium-high heat.
3. Sprinkle brisket all over with potato starch, salt, pepper, garlic powder and oregano.
4. Arrange potato slices on top of brisket; and then arrange onions and green pepper around brisket. Add water and roast, uncovered, until meat is tender, about 3-4 hours. Cooking time will depend on thickness of cut.
Yield: 6-8 servings

Reblog this post [with Zemanta]">

Cooking with Wine - Part II (Marinades)

2010-03-18T09:29:00.007-04:00

Using wine to marinate foods has long been a tradition in cooking. When we think of a marinade, we think of meat. And wine is perfect for it. It tenderizes the meat, gives body and strength to its texture and, at the same time, enhances the flavor. This works well with the less tender cuts of meat (i.e. cheaper cuts) and even game meats such as venison.

It is considered that the use of marinades began in the old sailing days. Sailors would use wines and spirits as marinades to preserve their meats. Otherwise a mariner would be eating rotten meat for the extended voyage. In time this process was taken up by landlubbers. Marinating is a simple enough procedure. The meat is placed in an enamel or glass container, then you add the wine and spices. The meat is turned every few hours until the marinade does its work. These days the meat is kept in the refrigerator.

Try the marinated beef recipe given below. You'd be surprised how an inexpensive cut of meat can reach such glorious heights.

BEEF IN MARINADE

Marinade ingredients:

2 1/2 pounds boneless chuck steak
2 cups dry red wine
1 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon red wine vinegar
3 cloves garlic, crushed
1 small onion, sliced
4 bay leaves
1 teaspoon fresh thyme or 1/4 teaspoon dried
4 sprigs parsley
10 whole black peppercorns

Cooking ingredients:

4 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
1/8 teaspoons ginger
1 tablespoon cornstarch

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
2. In a deep glass or enamel bowl combine the marinade ingredients. Place the meat in the bowl and cover with a lid or aluminum foil. Allow the beef to marinate for approximately 12 hours, turning two or three times.
2. Remove beef from marinade and dry on paper towels.
3. Heat three tablespoons of butter and the olive oil in a casserole or Dutch oven pot, and brown the meat on both sides over medium heat.
4. Strain the marinade and add to the beef. Place in oven and bake for 2 hours or until meat is tender.
5. Remove meat from casserole and boil marinade over high heat until the liquid is reduced to one cup. Dissolve the cornstarch in 2 tablespoons water and add to the marinade. Stir until thicken. Add ginger, salt, pepper, and swirl in the remaining tablespoon of butter.
6. Slice meat at an angle and serve with the sauce. This dish is good with dumplings or boiled potatoes.
Yield: 6-8 servings.

Colcannon for Saint Paddy's Day

2010-03-11T11:32:00.003-05:00

Saint Patrick's Day is here again. According to legend, Saint Patrick drove all the snakes out of Ireland. My father use to say use that, after hoisting a few drinks, all the snakes came back. Be it as it may, it's time for festivity, joy, green beer, green hats and all that goes with this glorious holiday, at least on this side of the pond.

The traditional dish for Saint Paddy's day is, of course, corned beef and cabbage. However, there is another Irish treat that I myself am partial to: Colcannon. This is a country dish that's right up there with Irish stew and Irish soda bread; and it can be served on Saint Paddy's day or any other day of the year. It's a homey, delicious dish. Some would call it mashed potatoes plus. But that doesn't do it justice. It's far tastier and richer than ordinary mash potatoes. It goes great with a few rashes of Irish bacon or a few slices of smoked ham. Add a pint, and you're in heaven.

COLCANNON

8 large mealy potatoes
8 small white onions, peeled
3 scallions, washed and trimmed
1 cup half and half milk
1 1/2 cups boiled, chopped Savoy cabbage
3 tablespoons melted butter
Pinch of grated or ground nutmeg
Salt and ground black pepper to taste

1. Boil potatoes, peel and mash. Place in a large bowl and set aside.
2. Put the half and half in a small pan or skillet. Add onions and scallions and cook over medium-low heat until tender. Strain, reserving liquid. Mince onions and scallions.
3. Add the onions, scallions, and the half and half liquid to the potatoes. Mix well and whip until fluffy. Add more half and half milk if needed. Stir in all other ingredients and blend well.
Yield: 6 servings.

Cooking with Wine - Part I

2010-03-08T12:19:00.004-05:00

Humanity has been cooking with wine since the inception of the grape. And not only wine but spirits in general. There are aficionados who cook with brandy, rum, whisky, you name it. Almost every culture that has spirituous liquors, cooks with them. Yet a lot of us have never cooked with wine, or even thought of it. Adding wine to your cuisine is like adding any other ingredient, herb or spice. Wine gives body and life to many dishes. And if you're concerned about the alcohol, no need to be. Even a teetotaler can use spirits in their cooking. The alcohol content evaporates when subjected to heat and only the flavoring remains.

There are many variations to wine cooking, ranging from using it as a marinade, or to produce a sauce, or even a poaching liquid. In this post I will focus on using wine at its basic: as an item which will combine with other ingredients to produce a lush blend of flavors and aromas. We're not talking about flambeing or flaming a piece of meat or fruit in order to get the taste, although that's also part of it. I'm talking about simple dishes that can be enhanced with a bit of the grape.

When most of us think of cooking with wine, or spirits in general, we immediately imagine those classic dishes such as boeuf bourguignon (beef cooked in Burgundy wine) or duck simmered in port. A lot of us cringe because it seems like such a bother. Here's a secret: it can be simple, and still be flavorful and delicious. Like the recipe given below. Nothing fancy, nothing time consuming. Just your basic lamb chops cooked in wine and herbs. The dish can also be done with pork chops or chicken breasts.

A final word: I know there are cooking wines out there on the grocer's shelf. Skip it. If you're going to cook with wine, use the wine you're going to drink with dinner. If you think it's a rare vintage, then buy something comparable at a lesser price and use that. The whole reason that cooking wines came about was to prevent the hired cooks from drinking the wines. So wines were salted and made unpalatable, and used for cooking. You're cooking for yourself and friends. You're not a hired cook. Enjoy your labors.

LAMB CHOPS WITH WINE AND HERBS

4 lamb chops, about 1/2 pound each and about 1 1/2 inches thick
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
2 tablespoons butter or margarine
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 cup wine, either dry red or dry white
1 teaspoons fresh thyme or 1/4 teaspoon dried
1/2 cup basil leaves, washed and chopped
1 clove garlic, peeled and finely minced
2 medium tomatoes, chopped
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

1. Sprinkle the chops with salt and pepper on both sides.
2. Use a heavy fry pan or skillet (I prefer cast iron) large enough to hold the chops in one layer. Heat oil and butter until foaming. Add chops and cook until tender (about 4 minutes per side). Remove from pan and keep warm.
2. Discard fat from pan and add wine. Scrape the bottom to release browned or cooked pieces clinging to the pan. Quickly boil wine over high heat until half of the wine has evaporated.
3. Add thyme, basil, and garlic. Saute for a minute or so. Add tomatoes and simmer for 5 minutes. Return the chops to the pan and cook for 2 minutes more. Remove to a serving platter and sprinkle with the parsley.
Yield: 4 servings (or 2 servings for big eaters)

Tuna Fish Casserole - The Old Standby

2010-03-01T15:31:00.017-05:00

Back in my youth, me and my dear friend, Paul Goldstein, use to share a place in the Bronx, not far from the Concourse. During our lean periods, we would have his famous tuna casserole which would keep us going until the next payday came in.

Today, my salad days are behind me but, once in a while, my wife and I prepare a tuna fish casserole which harkens back to those days of my young manhood. Actually, this dish is a great American invention if there ever was one; the best, quick pick me up meal I can think of. It's easy to make, filling and nutritious. I'm sure there are as many tuna fish casserole recipes as there are grains in the sand. Yet, my limited palate considers Pablo's creation to be among the best. And it is given below. So, the next time your significant other, or the kids, or any one else in the family, yearns for something fast and good, nothing beat this old standby.

PALIBACHI'S TUNA FISH CASSEROLE

2 5-ounce cans tuna fish
1 package egg noodles
1 can Campbell's cream of mushroom soup
1 can Campbell's cream of golden mushroom soup (absolutely need 2 different ones)
1 10-ounce package frozen peas and carrots
12 slices of Kraft American cheese or cheese of your choice
2 eggs
1 medium green bell pepper (pimento), sliced in rounds being careful to remove seeds
and fibers
1 tomato, sliced in rounds
Ground cinnamon to taste

1. Preheat oven to 325 degrees.
2. Cook egg noodles according to package directions, drain, rinse, and place in a large Pyrex or glass bowl.
3. Add both cans of soup. DO NOT ADD WATER. Drain tuna fish and add to bowl along with the peas and carrots. Add the eggs and mix well.
4. Add cheese slices so that they cover the top but leaving an open space in the middle of the casserole. Top with alternate slices of tomato and green pepper. Sprinkle with cinnamon.
5. Bake for 30 minutes (max).
Yield: 6 to 8 servings.

Reblog this post [with Zemanta]">

Hamantashen - The Big Megillah

2010-02-24T12:31:00.006-05:00

Purim is one of my favorite Jewish holidays. It is a fun event where those of the faith feast and send gifts of food to friends and the needy. I like holidays like these, the ones where you indulge rather than fast or abstain or deny yourself. Give me the fun holidays any day. It is celebrated on the 14th of Adar (usually late March) as reckoned by the Jewish calender; and it commemorates the time when the Jewish people living in Persia were saved from extermination by the beautiful Queen Esther, who was wife to Ahasuerus, King of Persia. She foiled the plan of the villainous Haman, the scheming advisor to the king, and who had planned to kill the Jews in the land.

When I was a young man back on the block, I had a Jewish friend who would always comment or complain about something being a "big Megillah," that is, a thing being important and of note, or just a big bother. I did not know what he was talking about and it was years later when I discovered that the Book of Esther, read during Purim, is also commonly known as the Megillah (which means scroll). But I did discover hamantashen early on, and I love those suckers.

Hamantashen (or hamantaschen) is a triangular fruit-filled pastry traditionally served during Purim. It gets its name form the evil character Haman, who wore a three-cornered hat. Initially, hamantashen pastries were filled with poppy seed fillings. But over time the filling became more diverse so that today you have hamantashen filled with fruit preserves (especially apricot) cherry jam, pie filling, and even chocolate. Yet my favorite filling has always been and remains, prunes. That's right: prunes. There's something about the things that's addictive in hamantashen.

So, below, is my favorite prune-filled hamantashen recipe. It you don't like prunes, that's your problem, use another filling.

PRUNE FILLED HAMANTASHEN

1 cup granulated sugar
1 stick margarine
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
3 eggs
1 teaspoon grated lemon peel
5 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder

Prune Filling:

2 pounds, prunes, pitted and chopped
1 cup raisins
1 cup chopped walnuts
1/2 lemon, juice and rind
3 tablespoons honey

1. In a large mixing bowl, combine the sugar and margarine, blending thoroughly. Add vanilla, eggs, and lemon peel, and blend. Stir in flour and baking powder; and mix into a dough. (If dough is too sticky to handle, can add up to 1/4 cup additional flour). Cover and refrigerate for about 2 hours or until dough is firm
2. Meanwhile, prepare the filling by rinsing the prunes and raisins, placing in a pan with enough water to cover and then boiling for about 5 minutes. Combine with the rest of the filling ingredients in a food processor or blender and puree until smooth. (This may have to be done in batches).
3. Roll out half of dough at a time, to about 1/4-inch thickness, on a lightly floured surface (try not to get holes in the batter). Cut into 3 or 4-inch rounds using a cookie cutter. Spoon one teaspoon filling into the middle of each round. Fold up the sides to make a triangle, folding the last corner under the starting point, so that each has a corner that folds under. Pinch the edges together firmly. This pinwheel style makes for a better triangle shape and reduces the chance of the filling spilling out during baking.
4. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Place hamantashen about 2 inches apart on a lightly greased baking sheet or large baking pan and bake from 15-20 minutes, or until golden brown (be careful that the filling does not boil over). Remove to a wire rack and let cool. When the hamantashen come out of the oven the dough may be slightly soft, but it will firm as it cools off.
Yield: about 5 dozen hamantashen.

Movie Bloopers

2010-02-22T13:10:00.007-05:00

From time to time, oversights in the visual production of a movie become legendary. What we call "movie bloopers." This occurred to me a couple of nights ago while I was watching the old movie version of Neil Simon's Biloxi Blues. In a pivotal last scene, Christopher Walken, as the deranged Sgt. Toomey, threatens to kill the lead protagonist (Matthew Broderick). Walken and Broderick have a running commentary, standing outside in the rain, with Sgt. Toomey in his uniform showing a row of ribbons on his shirt, inclusive of the purple heart. Problem is, going back and forth in the discussion between the two, sometimes you see the ribbons on Walken's chest, and sometimes you don't. I imagine they were doing numerous takes and, in-between , the make-up people would put on and take off the ribbons. It became disconcerting. I watched the scene wondering where the ribbons were. How come, during the conversation, sometimes he had them on and sometimes not?

Compared to other movie bloopers, this was minor. I recall when I was in the Marine Corps in Camp Pendleton (California) we always watched one movie that made us go wild, clapping and cheering. That was a Clint Eastwood spaghetti western, For a few Dollars More, where in one scene, Eastwood as the silent, poncho-attired hero meets Lee Van Cleef in a showdown. Just before the gunfight, both men stare at each other in the middle of town, with the Sergio Leone music in the background, ready to draw their guns. And just before the shoot-out, a 727 jet plane flies over Eastwood's right shoulder. We young marines must have watched that movie a dozen times just for that one scene. Imagine, a setting in the Old West in the 1800s with a jet plane flying overhead. Precious.

But the most memorable movie blooper I recall was from the epic, Cleopatra, where Liz Taylor, as the Nile queen, says a tearful goodbye to Julius Caesar (Rex Harrison) just before he departs for Rome. A group of soldiers come to escort Caesar and salute him by snapping a fist to their chests. Well, one of the centurions is wearing a Rolex watch. Priceless. And this 2,000 years before wrist watches were invented.

Recently I discovered they were showing Cleopatra on a movie channel. I told my wife she just had to watch this scene with the Roman soldiers and the watch. Alas, the scene was cut from this version. I imagine, somewhere along the line someone picked up on it. But, once in a while, when a movie blooper like this happens, it just makes my day.

Prized Eggplant

2010-02-20T15:39:00.006-05:00

Eggplant is one of those things that you love or hate. Either you like it or you don't. I'm in the former category. I love eggplant; mainly for its versatility. It can be boiled, fried, baked, grilled, whatever. Most people just dip it in bread creams or flour and fry it, using egg yolks as a binder. One of the easiest way to prepare it, I've discovered, is to layer slices of eggplant and tomatoes in a casserole. Then pour sour cream over the layers and bake. Easy, quick and delish.

But my all time favorite eggplant dish is the one listed below. This recipe was given to me 100 years ago by an old friend. Where she got it from I don't know. It could have been a family recipe, maybe not. All I know is that it's the most delicious eggplant preparation I've ever taste. It can be served an an appetizer or an entree as is. Or you can serve it with rice. It's Moroccan so I assume it's got a long pedigree, and it uses items such as cilantro and cumin. And it's a great vegetarian dish for all you vegans out there.

MOROCCAN EGGPLANT

2 eggplants (approximately 1 pound each)
2 tablespoons plus 1/2 cup olive oil
1 clove garlic, peeled and minced
1 small piece of fresh ginger (about 1-inch long), minced
1 teaspoon fresh hot pepper, minced
5 cups tightly packed cilantro leaves
Juice of 1/2 lemon
1 teaspoon ground cumin
Salt to taste
2 lemons, thinly sliced

1. Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Prick the eggplant several times with a fork, and rub the skin of each thoroughly with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil.
2. Bake on oven rack for about 1 hour, or until soft. Remove from oven and allow to cool.
3. Meanwhile, in a blender or food processor fitted with a steel blade, process 3 tablespoons of olive oil with garlic, ginger, and hot pepper until smooth. Continue processing while adding cilantro leaves, lemon juice,cumin, salt, and the remaining olive oil. Process until smooth.
4. With a pairing knife, peel the skin from each eggplant, starting from the stem end and pulling the skin downward, leaving the stem attached. Starting just below the stem and moving down, slice peeled eggplant lengthwise into three strips. (Keep attached to stem.) Lay eggplants on a platter and slightly fan out the three sections. Spoon cilantro sauce over fleshy part of eggplant. Garnish with slices of lemon.
Yield: 4 servings.

Peasantry in America

2010-02-15T16:02:00.007-05:00

I'm going to put on my social conscience hat on for this tidbit. Occasionally I do that, as witnessned my last novel, The Proud and the Immortal, a tome about modern day homelessness in America. Or as some would clasify it, an atypical tale about the haves and have-nots in our society. This all came back to me when I came across the work of poet Jim Harrison. Yup, sometimes peotry says it all.

What got me on this kick? Well, it's no secret that the U.S. is fast becoming the most econonically stratified society in the western world. This fact is particularly obvious since I live in New York City, where the middled class is being rapidly decimated by Bloomberg and his real estate cronies. But it's not only that, it's the recession in general which has really made it clear the inequity between the rich and poor. And it is a gap that's widening. Let me give you some numbers. According to the Survey of Consumer Finances sponsored by the Federal Reserve Board, the wealthiest 1% of families in America own roughly 34.3% of the nation's wealth; and the top 10% own over 71%.

Another sudy by New York University made it even more stark: in terms of financial wealth, the raw calculus just dealing with money, they own an even greater share of 42.7%. Since financial wealth is what counts, we can say that just 10% of the people in our country own the United Sates of America. For the rest of us? Either we get by or starve. Now, history has shown that such disparities in wealth is not good for the body politic. And it's even worse when (and this according to government statistics) over 32 million citizens live below the poverty line.

I could go on spouting statistics and studies and numbers till your head hurts. But, Jim Harrison's poem given below says it best. It's a cry, and a warning.

EASTER MORNING

On Easter morning all over America
the peasants are frying potatoes in bacon grease.

We're not suppose to have "peasants"
but there are tens of millions of them
frying potatoes on Easter morning,
cheap and delicious with catsup.

If Jesus were here this morning, he might
be eating fried potatoes with my friend
who has a '51 Dodge and a '72 Pontiac.

When his kids ask why they don't have
a new car he says, "these care were new once
and now they are experienced."

He can fix anything and when rich folks
call to get a toilet repaired he pauses
extra hours so they can further
learn what we're made of.

I told him that in Mexico the poor say
that when there's lightning the rich
think that God is taking their picture.
He laughed.

Like peasants everywhere in the history
of the world ours can't figure out why
they're getting poorer. Their sons join
the army to get work at being shot at.

Your ideals are invisible clouds
so try not to suffocate the poor,
the peasants, with your sympathies,
they know that you're staring at them.

Valentine's Day Treat - Veal Marsala

2010-02-10T13:21:00.013-05:00

Normally, Valentine's Day, apart from the flowers and candy, is a time when you and your special someone go to a restaurant, have the Valentine's Day special, and make goo-goo eyes at each other while waiters hover about taking orders and carrying food. Well, here's a thought: why not cook a special meal for that special someone? That's right. Stay home, light up a few candles, put on a Barry White CD, chill the champagne, and make a special dish that will knock their socks off. If there are kids in the way, park 'em with your in-laws or shell out some cash for a baby sitter. Remember, Valentine's Day comes but once a year. A good, romantic meal will make up for a lot, laddies and lassies.

And nothing lights up the sequence like Veal Marsala. I know, it sounds Frenchified, but it ain't. Also, it's quite easy to prepare. Not time consuming at all; so you'll have more time to hold hands and do whatever. Naturally, you need Marsala to prepare the dish. It's a sweet to semi-sweet fortified wine similar to port or sherry. You want to use the sweet Marsala (dolce---such as a Rubino). The wine gives a unique flavor to the dish that cannot be imitated by any other type of wine---so do not substitute. Only Marsala wine will do. I like to cook the veal in an electric skillet at the table since you have to flame the meat, and it adds that special elegance when you want to impress your partner. Be careful to use a long matchstick so it doesn't backfire and you burn yourself.

Now, for that special meal, start off with a salad, or a cream soup such as mushroom or spinach. To enhance that continental flavor you can add some garlic bread. If you don't know how to make garlic bread, you can substitute a round facaccia loaf, sprinkle some garlic on it, and drizzle it with a light olive oil (don't worry about the garlic. At this point, you're mind and body are going to be on other things). And to end the meal, nothing beats big juicy strawberries, halved and served with some light cream. Or you can take whole strawberries and dip them in cream or brown cane sugar and offer it to each other. You get the idea.

This entree can be served with rice or steamed vegetables and/or potatoes as an accompaniment. Veal Marsala can also be made with chicken breasts (Chicken Marsala). Just pound chicken breasts halves to about 1/4-inch thick or less and cook just like the veal. Either way, whichever ingredient you use, your true love is going to love you more.

VEAL MARSALA

1/2 pound veal, sliced wafer thin, or 4 veal cutlets (about 3 ounces each), thinly sliced
Note: if the veal cutlets are not sliced thin, you can pound them between two sheets of wax
paper or aluminum foil until 1/4-inch thick or less
3 tablespoons four
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
3 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons minced shallots
1/2 cup sliced mushrooms
1/4 cup Marsala wine
2-3 parsley sprigs

1. Combine the flour with the salt and pepper. Dredge the veal in flour and shake off any excess.
2. In a skillet large enough to hold the veal comfortably in s single layer, heat the butter over medium heat. When it is hot, brown veal quickly on both sides.
3. Add shallots and mushrooms and cook for 2-3 minutes.
4. Add Marsala wine. Place a lighted match to it and flame it. Saute all the ingredients until the flame dies down. This should be done rather quickly (you don't want to overcook the meat). Garnish with parsley and serve immediately.
Yield: 2 servings.

Classic French Cooking - Easy as Steak

2010-02-04T22:52:00.011-05:00

Julia Child is one of my heroes. Along with James Beard. They made classic French cuisine accessible to the American public. Still, unless you're a genuine Francophile, classic French cooking stuns most Americans. By that I mean the classic French dishes epitomized by such 19th century giants as Auguste Escoffier, and in the 20th century by Paul Bocuse and Fernand Point. These gastronomes took French cooking to its classic heights. But how many of us have the time or the inclination to prepare duck a' l'orange or a beef Richelieu with foie gras (goose liver pate) and truffles (rare mushrooms found by pigs attracted to the thing)? This mystique has, in some cases, prevented us from actually preparing a classic French meal.

It's like the fancy-dan wines with appellations and chateaus and hard-to-pronounced names. Fortunately, all French cuisine is not so arduous. The fabled country cooking of Brittany, for example, has great simplicity yet produces great dishes. Nothing can beat a basic grilled chicken (Poulet Grille) with a butter sauce. In the south of France you have the famed cassoulet, a mix of beans, pork, duck, lamb and everything in between. A hardy repast for hardy souls, and not fancy at all. Even classic French cuisine can be found at this level.

There are some classic French dishes that take no time at all and transfer you to heaven with flavor. When James Beard published his first cookbook in 1940 Hors d'Oeuvre and Canapes, one for the first recipes he included was mushrooms stuffed with Roquefort cheese, a very simple dish That's right, to most Americans, stuffed mushrooms, at the time, were totally alien. The recipe that follows below is in that vein. It's French, has a highfalutin French name, but its easy. Today, steak au poivre vert is cooked in firehouses between shifts. You wanna impress your friends with a classic French meal? Just whip this up. Add some pommes frites (French fries) and steamed vegetables, a nice Bordeaux wine, and you got it made. Especially for you young single guys and gals trying to impress someone of interest. Go at it, kiddies. They'll be amazed at your dexterity with French cooking.

Steak au poivre vert calls for green peppercorns (vert means green in French). They can be found in almost any supermarket these days, in jars packed in brine or canned. If canned, just rinse and drain. If in brine, no need to rinse. If you can't find or don't want to use green peppercorns, regular black peppercorns can be used. In that case, the dish is just plain steak au poivre.

STEAK AU POIVRE VERT

2 tablespoons green peppercorn (either canned or packed in brine - see above)
1 1/2 pounds boneless beef round, top-round steak, or sirloin, 3/4-inch thick, trimmed of fat;
or 4 boneless shell steaks, about 10 ounces each
3 tablespoons butter or margarine
Salt to taste

1. Crush the peppercorns in a mortar with a pestle or place them in a plastic bag with a rolling pin. Moisten surface of steak lightly with water, and press pepper into both sides of meat with heel of hand and fingers.
2. Melt the butter in a large heavy frying pan or skillet over high heat (I prefer cast-iron). Add meat and quickly saute on both sides, turning once or twice. The outside should be browned, but the inside should be slightly pink and rare.
3. Season with salt, and serve sliced thinly against the grain.
Yield: 4 servings.

Note: If you want to fancify the dish even more, once the meat is done, remove to a warm platter, add another tablespoon of butter to the pan, add some chopped onions or shallots, and cook until golden. Add 1/2 cup dry white wine and cook until wine is reduced to a tablespoon or so. Add 1/2 cup heavy cream and cook about another minute. Then you can pour this sauce over the steak. Another variation is to use 2 tablespoons brandy or cognac and 1/2 cup beef bouillon in lie of the wine and cream. Either way, you can't go wrong.

Palibachi's New York Cheesecake

2010-01-27T14:27:00.015-05:00

My dear friend, Paul Goldstein, has live in Seattle for a few years now. But he's just about had it. See, according to Paul, Seattle has no really good kosher delis. That's right. Nothing in the vein reminiscent of his youth (and mine as well). No real New York style bagels or bialys, of stuffed kishka or derma, or even descent matzoh ball soup. Imagine that, loving in a place that has no genuine delis? Now, I'm sure Seattle is a wonderful town and, of course, it's got great coffee houses, not to mention Rainier beer but, a place that doesn't have a good old style deli? Well, I couldn't live there. More than once I've had to ship Paul New York bagels and babka to keep him going.

I can sympathize since I am a partisan of old style Yiddish cuisine in the Ashkenazi Eastern European tradition. But there's more. Paul asserts that he can't find a real danish in Seattle. By his account, if you drop a New York danish, it drops to the floor with a heavy thud. That's a danish. In Seattle they float down like a feather. But what was the last stray for Pablo, was the cheesecake saga---or lack of it. He says the cheesecake in his area leaves a lot to be desired. Nothing like the genuine creamy concoction we get here. Paul's cheesecake jones has gotten so bad he's been forced to make his own cheesecake. And that's the recipe that follows below. It's based on an original recipe but with reduced sugar. And it's pretty good. Even if you live on the East Coast and have access to good cheesecake, this recipe, if nothing else, is fun to make, and you get to eat homemade cheesecake. For a cheesecake addict, it doesn't get better than that.

PALIBACHI"S NEW YORK CHEESECAKE (with or without pie filling)

9-inch spring form pan required

Shell ingredients:

1 cup flour
1/4 cup sugar
1 stick of butter
1 1/2 teaspoon grated lemon peel
1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 egg yolk

Filing:

5 8-ounce packages of Philadelphia cream cheese. YES, YOU NEED FIVE!
5 eggs
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 teaspoons grated lemon peel
1/4 to 1/2 cup heavy or light whipping cream
3/4 cup sugar (works well with cherry pie filling, a nice contrast)
1 1/2 tablespoons flour
Cherry pie filling (canned or commercial is okay)

To make shell:

1. Preheat oven to 325 degrees
2. Melt butter in a small pot or pan, remove from heat. Add all the shell ingredients and mix together until thick. Remove bottom of spring form pan. Using about a 1/3 of the shell mixture, spread it over the entire bottom of the pan using your fingers and palm, covering the entire pan but no more than about 1/4-inch thick.
3. Place in oven and bake for approximately 10 minutes or until golden brown (while this is baking you can prepare the filling).
4. Remove and let cool.
5. Place ring around bottom making sure it is sealed properly. Spread the reminder of shell mixture around the ring using your fingers making sure ring sides and bottom are sealed (sides do not have to be thick).

Cheesecake Filling:

1. Soften the Philadelphia cream cheese packs. YES, YOU NEED 5! IT'S NOT A NEW YORK CHEESECAKE UNLESS YOU DO. Combine and mix in a bowl with the whipping cream. If you don't have an electric mixer, a hand mixer works just as well if you first soften the cream cheese in the oven.
2. Add all other ingredients except cherry pie filling. Fill the spring form pan with the filling. If you are making a cherry cheese cake, pour just enough of the filling to cover the bottom of the pan then add the cherry pie filling. You can save a small amount to use as a large circle topping afterward if so desired.
3. Place in oven and bake for 30 minutes. Let it cool in the oven, and then let it cool further on the counter top. Place in the refrigerator (Paul states it is best eaten the next day---if you can wait).

Reblog this post [with Zemanta]">

Sukiyaki - The Perfect Party Dish

2010-01-19T14:00:00.010-05:00

Back when I was a young man there was a hit song: "Sukiyaki," sung in Japanese by a crooner named Kyu Sakamoto. As far as I know it was the only Japanese language song to top the charts in the U.S. It wasn't until years later when I was in Japan that I discovered the dish, sukiyaki. This gem is a popular one-pot meal in Japan, and is the perfect winter dish. It is a dish cooked in the nabemono (Japanese Hot Pot) style; and normally consists of thin slices of beef slowly cooked or simmered in a pan or skillet with other ingredients such as vegetables, to which soy sauce, sugar and mirin (Japanese rice wine) can be added. A vegetarian version can be made with tofu.

The origins of sukiyaki are murky. Meat, especially game and poultry has been cooked in Japan since time immemorial. Farmers use to cook the meat (yaki) by grilling it outside on a spade or plow share (suki). Hence, the literal meaning, sukiyaki. In the 16th century Portuguese traders brought beef with them, and the Japanese started preparing sukiyaki with beef.

Today sukiyaki is popular world-wide, and can be found in many restaurant menus. It is the perfect party dish since it can be cooked at table with the ingredients already set individually or in a large plate. You cook the ingredients as you go. You don't have to cook in the kitchen, as noted in the recipe below. And remember that sukiyaki is a communal thing. It cannot wait for the guests. Before cooking begins, have your guests comfortable and seated, nibbling on appetizers, and the hot rice served at the beginning.

SUKIYAKI

1 1/2 pounds beef tenderloin or flank steak
1 pound rice (it could be short grain, such as Nishiki, or medium or long grain)
1/2 pound transparent or silver noodles
6 scallions, washed and cut into thin slices (minus the root end)
8-10 white mushrooms, cut through the stem and crown so that it resembles a "T" shape.
1/2 pound fresh spinach, washed and torn into bite-size pieces
1 pound canned bamboo shoots, drained
1/2 pound bean sprouts, drained if canned. If fresh, blanch, then rinse and drain.
2 tablespoons peanut oil

Sauce:
1 cup soy sauce
1/2 cup rice wine (mirin) or dry sherry
2 teaspoons sugar

1. Put the meat in the freezer for about 1/2 hour to firm it enough so that it can be sliced into paper thin slices. If the slices are longer than 4 inches, halve them. Arrange meat slices on a round platter, slightly overlapping, cover with aluminum foil and refrigerate.
2. Cook rice according to package directions. Set aside and keep it warm.
3. Place noodles in a bowl. Cover with boiling water, and soak for 20 minutes. Drain, and repeat procedure. Drain again and place in bowl.
4. Here you have a choice. You can either arrange all the vegetable on a large platter. Or you can put the onions and scallions in one bowl, each divided into one-half of the bowl; and the mushrooms, spinach, bamboo shoots, and bean sprouts into their own small bowls as well.
5. Prepare sauce: In a small saucepan bring soy sauce, rice wine or sherry, and sugar to a boil. Pour into a sauce dish.
6. Place wok (on top of a burner) or an electric frying pan in the middle of the table. Spoon rice into 4 individual bowls. Arrange all ingredients around the wok or fry pan. Heat oil in the wok or pan over high heat. Add one-fourth of meat slices and brown quickly on both sides. Sprinkle some of the sauce mixture over the meat, and push aside. Add one-fourth of each of the vegetables and noodles and stir-fry for approximately 3 minutes.
7. Each guest is given part of the cooked meal and starts eating while the second portion is being prepared. Each guest can add more sauce according to taste.
Yield: 4 servings.
Note: Traditional sukiyaki in Japan includes a bowl of raw beaten eggs. Each guest dips the cooked vegetables into the eggs before eating. I have a problem with raw eggs in any venue, even with cooked vegetables. If you want to include eggs, an alternative is to cook the eggs with the ingredients and then serve.